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Hey folks,

Is it difficult to remove the valve section from a King fiberglass sousaphone?

I would like to remove a valve section, paint the horn, and then replace the valve section.

Any tips would be apprecuated!

May the Force be with you!

Is bagging and taping the valve section while on the horn a possibility?

It's relatively easy on most of them; but there can be pitfalls! After undoing the bolts, there are two large O rings holding the birdsnest into the rest of the instrument; these can break on removal. If they live, you're gold. If not... you'll need new ones. And taking the nest out can fracture on the the fibreglass braces too, so be careful. And remember that other past repairs could reveal themselves when you pull the bolts!

It's not brain surgery... but be careful.

J.c.S.

Follow JC's advice but keep this in mind as well; DO NOT REMOVE ANY NUTS THAT AREN'T PART OF THE VALVE SECTION. Just tape over them when you paint the body.

Also, be careful when removing the cluster from the fiber. Sometimes you can remove the ferrule as well and that can be a pain to properly put back together if you have never done it before.

With the valve section off, this is a great time to have the valve section chemically cleaned. You should take your cluster to the local repair shop and have them do this while it is off the body. This way you can have the valves aligned too!

When you reassemble the instrument, replace the o-rings (you should be able to get these at a hardware store I think...) and use clear silicone (also available at a hardware store) to seal the cluster to fiber connection. Believe it or not, this makes a difference.

If you want some pointers on how to do a nice job with white paint, PM me. If you want to do some wacky non-traditional stuff you are on your own.

I agree Bloke. EVERY single one I have taken apart has needed new O-rings.

I forgot that goofy wheel! If you don't have soft jaw pliers, you can use a piece of leather like an old belt in the jaws of some regular pliers to loosen that piece without marring the metal. That has worked OK in my experience.

Bloke's right on. BRSousa is as well. I make the "dire" warnings only because previous folks have tended to "help" these explode when I've gotten them by being over-rough.

They were - as you say - designed to come apart. But I've always sorta liked "the wheel". I use a strap wrench.

J.c.S.