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Is the best way to do this through the slide tube, or some other way?

http://www.navyband.navy.mil/article_horn_valves.shtml" target="_blank" target="_blank" target="_blank
http://www.lyricbrass.com/spang/oilrotor.pdf" target="_blank" target="_blank" target="_blank
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2393" target="_blank" target="_blank" target="_blank

Melton/Meinl Weston together with B&S is the world's largest and most respected manufacturer of rotary instruments.
According to their recommendations, they write in their web site:

Rotary Valves should be oiled by applying rotary valve oil at the spindle bearings (under the back cap and under the stop arm) once a week. The moving parts of the Lever mechanisms and Steel Ball linkages should be oiled with the rotary valve oil monthly.
Note: Please do not oil the inside rotors through the leadpipe or the valve slides as this will only wash the slide grease into the valve and slow down the rotor.

Only one type of oil and no oiling inside the rotor valves, very simple.

bloke wrote: bloke "who generously oils the interior parts with (cheap) thin oil, and the spindle bearings and lever mechanisms with (cheap) thicker oil...more often than monthly"

WUT?

bloke wrote: ...in a perfect (and perfectly clean) world...

bloke "who generously oils the interior parts with (cheap) thin oil, and the spindle bearings and lever mechanisms with (cheap) thicker oil...more often than monthly"

I strongly believe that also Melton/MW tubas are used in the same environment as all other tubas.
There is no need for splaching that amount of oil as Bloke does.
Since the rotary valves don't have any inner mechanical contact, no inside oiling is necessary or even desirable. That oil dissolves the slide grease and causes sticking.
Only the bearings and linkages are to be oiled once a week if playing daily.
That have been the standard for me throughout the years without problems.
It also means that you can use a much cheaper standard machinery oil of good quality.

Lectron wrote:

bloke wrote: bloke "who generously oils the interior parts with (cheap) thin oil, and the spindle bearings and lever mechanisms with (cheap) thicker oil...more often than monthly"

WUT?

Lars Trawen wrote:

bloke wrote: ...in a perfect (and perfectly clean) world...

bloke "who generously oils the interior parts with (cheap) thin oil, and the spindle bearings and lever mechanisms with (cheap) thicker oil...more often than monthly"

I strongly believe that also Melton/MW tubas are used in the same environment as all other tubas.
There is no need for splaching that amount of oil as Bloke does.
Since the rotary valves don't have any inner mechanical contact, no inside oiling is necessary or even desirable. That oil dissolves the slide grease and causes sticking.
Only the bearings and linkages are to be oiled once a week if playing daily.
That have been the standard for me throughout the years without problems.
It also means that you can use a much cheaper standard machinery oil of good quality.

Good to know that procedure works well for you. The procedure that bloke uses is also the one I use, and have used for almost 40 years (with the same instrument), with no problems. No sticking valves, no slide problems ... no red rot in the leadpipe ... nothing. I'm sure you'll continue with what works for you, just as I'll continue with what works for me.

When I bought my horn, Matt Walters recommended a few drops of plain (piston) oil down the lead pipe daily. However, I think that was mainly to keep the leadpipe clean. In any case, I’ve used all of the methods referred to and have had no problems, even though I lube infrequently relative to some postings . I DO recommend that, if you oil through a slide, you drip the oil down the center so you don’t wash a lot of slide grease into the valve. I have no preference for piston or rotary valves, but IMO rotaries require less attention to lubrication.