I have a problem. I picked up a horn this week that has clockspring valves and the first one had lost tension. I took it to my repair tech today and was stumped at how to solve the problem. So, that's where the knowledge of the TNFJ comes in!
Are parts for such valves readily available? If so, where? If not, what's the next step? I would prefer not to do a linkage conversion. If that's unavoidable, what is the ballpark for Cerveny linkages? Any and all useful information is appreciated. The rest..well..thanks anyway...
It's no big deal to replace a clock-spring. But... it's just a dab more involved to try to coach you through it in 25 words or less. If you run into too many 'dead ends'... just take the whole paddle bar assembly off the horn and send it to me.
Dan Schultz
"The Village Tinker" http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
TubaTinker wrote:It's no big deal to replace a clock-spring. But... it's just a dab more involved to try to coach you through it in 25 words or less. If you run into too many 'dead ends'... just take the whole paddle bar assembly off the horn and send it to me.
Where can one find parts for replacement? Who is the US dealer for Cerveny?
I always cut my fingers on these when I have to open them up... but few techs seem to remember how to do this anymore; have your tech check out Tuba Tinkers site - he has a pic of them opened up
Different models have different tension mechanisms, and some require removing a fractured piece and creating a new tab to lock it in. Bit of a job, but not too bad
J.c.S.
Instructor of Tuba & Euphonium, Cleveland State University
Principal Tuba, Firelands Symphony Orchestra
President, Variations in Brass http://www.jcsherman.net
I have an older St. Petersburg with clock springs. My springs are still "springy" but the linkage is junk. I am considering upgrading to a modern heim-joint link and coil springs on the cheap. with my horn, the bellcrank which turns the rotor itself is worn, and sloppy. Have others done something similar modification?
Cool! I check that out. My old St. Pete isn't a bad sounding horn, really.. I like it, and well, it fits my budget, LOL! At heart, I like the sound of the fat American horns like the 20J. I drive those rotors like Iron Man, and respect the durability of pistons. I guess the sum of what I'm saying is I want to beef up the rotor parts, and put an end to all the sticky clacky- bounce across the band room rotor bumper issues.
I'm learning about the St. Pete.... mine is older.... has "1967" stamped on the bell, date?? it has no other model or maker marks. It must be pre- tuba exchange? If anyone is interested I'll put a few pictures up!
