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I have a York compact 4/4 BBb with three upright valves. I'd like to get it converted to a front action horn. Nothing wrong with top-action, I just prefer the ergonomics of front-action horns. What valve sets are "compatible" to the bugle of a York BBb? I've heard King valve sets work well, but wasn't sure if there are more options.

Thanks in advance!

Those have a bore of ~.656". The popular bore size for tubas of that size (G50, 5XJ, King 2341, Kanstul CC, etc.) is .687. Not to big, not to small, and valve sets with that bore are "relatively" easy to find.

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These might be some good places to start.

It is going to depend on what model York tuba you have and where your skill level is. The common York model 33 pattern is a little to squat for reconfiguring but it can be done. The 700 and 800 series are better candidates. Because the change leaves the horn short by about 9-11 inches, all models require the 6th branch be replaced. You will also need to come up with a proper mouth-pipe and no, you cant make up for the length issue in the mouth-pipe and tuning slide. Fabricating the needed branch is not a simple task but is a must if you want excellent final results. You will also need a lot more braces as the front action set up calls for them. On almost all the York tubas I have performed this process, I typically use the 2165 valve kits that can be purchased from Melton in Germany. They are quite expensive but they work nicely on the 700 and 800 horns.

If you are not scared off yet and still want to pursue the task; for gods sake man, don't cheap out. Do good dent work, assemble it correctly and put a right proper finish on the damn thing. Sorry, I just get irritated when such projects get undertaken only to be left in a state of ''half-assed''. (Yeah, I will get flamed for that little out-burst).

Do it right and share the results with us. I would love to see your work.

As an example, I have included a few pics of one of the big J. W. York and Sons (c.1914) BBbs I have been wrapping up. I have reconfigured the valves from three top to four front and as the owner requested, have also included a thumb 5th valve. As you probably noticed, I go quite a ways with the details in fit and finish to make the horn look original even though no such horn was ever constructed in such a manor by York. I hope this will inspire you to some degree. It will be shipped off to be silver plated next week. I have included a few shots that you might find helpfull should you chose to take the project on. Good luck! : )











Daniel C. Oberloh
Oberloh Woodwind and Brass Works
http://www.oberloh.com

Daniel C. Oberloh wrote:It is going to depend on what model York tuba you have and where your skill level is. The common York model 33 pattern is a little to squat for reconfiguring but it can be done. The 700 and 800 series are better candidates. Because the change leaves the horn short by about 9-11 inches, all models require the 6th branch be replaced. You will also need to come up with a proper mouth-pipe and no, you cant make up for the length issue in the mouth-pipe and tuning slide. Fabricating the needed branch is not a simple task but is a must if you want excellent final results. You will also need a lot more braces as the front action set up calls for them. On almost all the York tubas I have performed this process, I typically use the 2165 valve kits that can be purchased from Melton in Germany. They are quite expensive but they work nicely on the 700 and 800 horns.

If you are not scared off yet and still want to pursue the task; for gods sake man, don't cheap out. Do good dent work, assemble it correctly and put a right proper finish on the damn thing. Sorry, I just get irritated when such projects get undertaken only to be left in a state of ''half-assed''. (Yeah, I will get flamed for that little out-burst).

Do it right and share the results with us. I would love to see your work.

As an example, I have included a few pics of one of the big J. W. York and Sons (c.1914) BBbs I have been wrapping up. I have reconfigured the valves from three top to four front and as the owner requested, have also included a thumb 5th valve. As you probably noticed, I go quite a ways with the details in fit and finish to make the horn look original even though no such horn was ever constructed in such a manor by York. I hope this will inspire you to some degree. It will be shipped off to be silver plated next week. I have included a few shots that you might find helpfull should you chose to take the project on. Good luck! : )

Daniel C. Oberloh
Oberloh Woodwind and Brass Works
http://www.oberloh.com

York 800 series? I thought the 700 series was the +4/4-5/4 and the 900 series was the 6/4. What is the 800?

Nice work Dan! That's a sexy beast!

My only thought in these occasions is that there are fewer and fewer Yorks left in their original condition anymore. The musical drive is there, of course, to get "that sound" but it's hard to not to think about whether any of my future students will ever be able to try a TA york or any york with fewer than 4 valves left unassailed.

And I know I'm guilty too. But it's starting to trouble me these days. Refinishing (sorry Dan) also troubles me.

J.c.S.

J.c.-
Glad you like the pic. I understand what your saying. But, there are a lot of old York three-bangers around with top action valves. Really, the number of reconfigurations I have done in the past twenty years (on old York tubas) is about five. At the rate I am going, I might have that many more completed in another twenty years (maybe). I am not making any kind of dent in what is out there. All that I have produced so far, were for serious players as few would be willing to take on the cost and time involved with such projects on a whim. I have restored a few top action models that are currently held in private collections as well as a few that are regularly played. The Shrine to Music in Vermilion SD also has one that I restored many years ago.

Refinishing? not a worry, if you know what you are doing and do it properly. Taking the tuba to pieces and completely re-soldering it back together along with a proper valve rebuild refreshes the horn and sets the stage for another hundred years. The plus to all this is that a good looking and functioning horn will be appreciated and treated better. In turn, this will lengthen the instruments serviceable life.

Finally, most of the reconfigured instruments I have been commissioned to deliver are in most cases on deaths doorstep by the time they arrive in my shop. The bells are badly damaged, so much so that the process to properly repair them will take many days if not weeks of effort. Bows are badly cracked and many other parts are all together missing. I feel the alteration and lengthy restoration are a great service to the artists that employ me on such projects and that in the end, I am saving the voice of one more york tuba that would have otherwise ended up in the scrap pile.

Daniel C. Oberloh
Oberloh Woodwind and Brass Works
http://www.oberloh.com" target="_blank" target="_blank

That's some serious horn-dorn. Beautiful!

Just to clarify, this is a York model 33 with the current bore of .656 .

Dan-amazing pictures and what a wonderful setup!