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Roughly, what are the costs of these?

4V Bflat rotor section for a MW tuba
4V piston block for MW tuba

Would it be completely cost prohibitive to put a new block on an older MW body? (the bugle is fantastic, OLD rotors....

When my professor replaced his piston valve block on his 6/4 a few years back he got one from Peter Hirsbrunner for $6,000 I believe.

Costs of new valves are hard to find online for some reason....

This is currently listed in the for sale section:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=48100&p=424497&hilit=block#p424497" target="_blank

I would imagine that the tubing and the bending and making of all the parts would easily double the cost of this valve block.


Have you looked into used sousaphone valve section.

If its the Meinl 20 in your signature, it may be better/cheaper to sell it and put the money towards a new horn

I was told by one of the piston valve block makers in Europe that the block complete with tubing (not assembled) would cost me $1800. This was about ten years ago.

Really, the hard part is getting one of them to agree to sell a valve block to you. I believe that in today's economy, you have a good chance of getting them to agree to sell one to you.

You might approach the Chinese manufacturers about buying a valve block. Why not?

Doesn't Kanstul build custom valve blocks?

I have put new piston valve sections onto three different old BBb tubas, and I love every one of them. A new valve section with its associated tubing costs roughly half of the price of that model tuba. My first was a Bohm & Meinl, many years ago; I got it from Custom Music. My second was direct from Walter Nirschl in Germany, about 15 years ago. Matt Walters at Dillon helped me get a Mirafone piston valve section about 10 years ago, and I know that he has obtained them more recently for his own projects.

I tried to get a piston valve section from Dr. Michael B., who imports the "M&M" tubas from China, but he said the folks at his factory refused to sell them. He did say he could get a rotary valve set for me, but that's not what I wanted. So you might want to give him or Matt a call.

In my opinion a new valve block on an old horn is definitely worth the investment, especially if you already have the old horn and don't mind the fact that it's not shiny and new. You can set it up the way YOU want it, instead of struggling to adapt yourself to somebody else's design. In effect you get an ugly new tuba for half price.

For Perinetvalves address directly: Max Bauerfeind GmbH, Alte Mainzer Strasse 16, D-64569 Nauheim, Tel. +49-6152-6555, Email: bauerfeind.ventile@t-online.de" target="_blank" target="_blank.

For rotary valves address directly: J. Meinlschmidt GmbH, Hirschenweg 5, D-82538 Geretsried, Tel. +49-8171-31710, Email: info@jm-gmbh.de" target="_blank" target="_blank.

These two make them all!!

If they do not deliver directly to you, they will have the information about their representatives in the USA for you.

Best luck,

Hubert.

If he likes everything else about the horn, a valve rebuild (yes, it is possible to have the rotors replated) may be in order.

Isn't there a guy in the US (Nate?) that makes .750" piston blocks?

TheHatTuba wrote:Isn't there a guy in the US (Nate?) that makes .750" piston blocks?

There is a fellow named 'Nate' who I have had make pistons for me. Don't know if he makes complete valvesets.

I've never had to order a complete new valve section for a tuba. There are lots of choices out there used and I'm a faithful customer of Anderson Silver Plating.

Rotary valves are a different animal altogether. I've only seen a couple of cases where the rotor bodies and housings were worn beyond use. ... and then it's easier to just replace the whole assembly. In most cases I've seen... the wear that causes trouble is the bearing point at each end of the rotor. Simple swaging the outside bearing surface will usually make things good again. Keep the bearings in good shape and the outside of the rotor and the inside of the housing should never touch. Failure to oil the bearings front and back will eventually cause trouble.

I have been wondering why you would need to replace the current valve block. As Dan points out, generally the bearings are the problem area and can be remedied pretty easily. I have in the past had to replace bearings and plate and lap rotary valves and gotten perfectly good results for FAR less than the cost of replacing the entire valve block. If you really want to go to pistons it would probably be more economical to just replace the whole tuba.

so Dan, Anderson plating sells used piston sets?
also, I've checked out the cost of a piston Fafner. even if the block was 6k, with labor I would still come out a few K under. and I HATE the new MW 25's. love the Fafners, but I just find the 25's to be 'tight'. all 3 20's I have had play almost like a heavy weight Alex.

bigboymusic wrote:so Dan, Anderson plating sells used piston sets?

No, what he is saying is that old pistons can be replated.

http://www.andersonsilverplating.com/valve_work.html" target="_blank

PMeuph wrote:

bigboymusic wrote:so Dan, Anderson plating sells used piston sets?

No, what he is saying is that old pistons can be replated.

http://www.andersonsilverplating.com/valve_work.html" target="_blank" target="_blank

That is correct.

I know from whence thou comest, Joe. As I said to another of our posters - a fine craftsman - when you get a top reputation, people expect miracles - ahhhhhhhh the price of success!!!

Bin dayr, dun dat - years ago a friend coerced me into taking on repairing a whole brass band's totally F........d lot of old instruments. I only agreed on the proviso that, as he wanted to "upgrade" his tech skills, he would do a lot of the work under supervision. Din't take long before he realised what a near impossible job it was to try to turn sows ears into purses.

Some things just can't be done without a LOT of hard work - if at all - and the point of totally diminished returns starts coming into play. Some cases really do require expensive new parts or total replacement. One must wonder at times how some shops will do the cosmetic work and leave the heart of an instrument, the valves, in a state of uselessness and take people's money and still sleep at night.

In reply to question of LJV:

Yes, Adams is the owner of Bauerfeind, but valve production is still done at Bauerfeind in Germany. However you could decide to order valves via Adams (address Miel = Emile Adams within the Adams Company; his direct phone number is +31-475-560707; he understands perfectly what you are talking about, because he is technically in charge of the Adams instrument production).
Hubert