TubeNet

You could call a local repair shop and ask, it sounds like it might just need a little solder in a joint and if that is it, a repair shop could probably do it while you wait if you tell them when you are coming a little ahead of time. A repairman actually looking at the horn would probably be the best and they could give you a better opinion than those of us who have no info other than what you can say online. If it will take too long just take it in after the audition. As far as affecting the sound, unless she is trying out for a professional job or it's like a college jury or something like that, it probably won't make a huge effect on the judicators opinion. Hope this helps but proably won't, oh well, you can probably figure something out. Good luck

Ben

I don't quite understand your description of where the leak is, but you might be able to make a temporary repair with sticky tape. I used to use "Mystic" tape for this kind of thing, but I don't know if it is still available. By taping up the leak you can find out if it has any noticeable effect on her playing. Then you can make an informed decision about repairs.

wecked_out wrote:My daughter's VMI 2103 has a pretty big leak in the 1st joint of the lead pipe. We noticed moisture dripping out of it tonight and I used the standard soapy water test to confirm the presence. The joint leaks from about 1/2 of the tube diameter. . . . Is there a temporary repair that won't hamper a permanent fix in the future?

That leak probably makes the horn harder to play.

Clean off any oil around the joint and apply a piece of duct tape until a solder repair can be made.

Give it a little Hubba Bubba!

If it can't be fixed with either barbed wire or duct tape, you might want to consider throwing the horn away and starting over.

Seriously, if the instrument is leaking substantially, my opinion is that it can have a great impact on the sound being produced. It is indeed more difficult to play.

Is there anything better than being a tuba Dad?

Probably not.

Being a tuba son can be very painful sometimes

harold wrote:Where is Tuba Tinker when you need him?

To find a technician in your area, go to the NAPBIRT web site and search the 'Tech Locator'. This is the Link: http://65.254.80.85/

Here's one in Dayton:

Last Name: Dafler
First Name: Gary
Business: Hauer Music
Address: 120 S. Patterson Blvd
City: Dayton
State: OH
Zip Code: 45402
Country:
Phone: 937-222-2815
Fax:
Email: gjjamd@donet.com

Here's two in Cincy:

Last Name: Bockenstette
First Name: Anita
Business: Woodwinds & Brass
Address: 4965 Delhi Pike
City: Cincinnati
State: OH
Zip Code: 45238
Country:
Phone: 513-451-6088
Fax: 513-451-0909
Email: woodwbr@fuse.net

========================================
Last Name: Snyder
First Name: Scott
Business: Buddy Roger's Music
Address: 6891 Simpson Ave
City: Cincinnati
State: OH
Zip Code: 45239
Country:
Phone: 513-729-1950
Fax: 513-728-6010
Email: ssnyder@buddyrogers.com

bloke wrote:If you want to try something "weird", you could try to neatly blob epoxy glue up in the crack for a semi-permanent fix. With this strategy, you could avoid burning your pretty new lacquer job, and (in spite of what you might think about epoxy) this would still come apart in the future, if you wanted to get it fixed properly. If you're going to try this, DRY it out right there really well first...A hairdryer might be the thing.

I've done just this and it works fine. When I bought my Sanders/Cerveny back in 1984 or so, there was a leak in one of the second-valve ferrules into the valve tubing. I mixed up a batch of clear, waterproof 5-minute epoxy, applied it to the edge of the ferrule, and pulled the slide to draw it into the joint. It never leaked in the time I owned that instrument (at least 8 years).

Rick "thinking epoxy is pretty good at encapsulating the line buildup, etc." Denney

You can always try a metal hose clamp and surgical tubing.

A long time ago, I arrived at a location far, far from anywhere for an audition. I took my horn out of the bag, put in the mouthpiece, and it played like the main tuning slide had fallen out, except it hadn't. At one point in time, as I was told, Hirsbrunner outsourced the manufacture of their receivers, and such a crack was, unfortunately commonplace in horns from that era. So I had a receiver and lead pipe that no longer fully connected. I asked where the nearest hardware store was and got the clamp. I had a section of tubing that I'd put around the thumb ring for a little extra comfort. I wrapped the rubber around the break, then tightened the clamp around that. Dang near better than new. The surgical tubing is so soft that it filled and sealed under the pressure from the clamp. It worked so well, I put off the "real" repair for quite a while.

wecked_out wrote: I like the clear nail polish idea. It will draw in better than an epoxy yet it's thicker than super glue.

You might also want to try this stuff:



It's an old-time (at least since the 1930's) general-purpose nitrocellulose-based glue that's plenty thick and sticks to just about anything. Your repair guy will love you because it will come right off with a bit of heat.