King 2280 Trigger

[cctubaneeds]

I just recently picked up a 2280 for a long term loan, see my post about ragtime... Anyway, I am the type of person that learns things and then it is hard to great habits. Specifically how I hold an instrument, when I play tuba turned my head to the side for the longest time and it was hard to break. So to the topic.

My(for now) 2280 has the 3rd valve trigger and I want to use it. I like the idea of tuning the 4th valve differently and will play with many options, including the idea of the P5 posted on the this forum.

WHY is this trigger so awkward?
I have tried multiple ways of holding the instrument but I want to kind of hold it like a 3+1 comp and control the trigger with my left thumb but I can't reach it. The only way I have found to hold the instrument to use the trigger is to put my left hand inside the body awkwardly and not really support the instrument.

Anybody had success with this trigger?

The trigger is probably made from parts king already had, probably a trumpet third slide ring it seems. But it is on the wrong side of the 3rd valve, either way. I understand it being in the body to protect it but if it was on the side of the 3rd nearer to the middle of the euph it would be reach able.

Maybe a different thumb ring can make this trigger more playable?
I was thinking with a S that makes the thumb ring closer. I cannot modify this 2280 as I don't own it, so I would get a new ring made or something.

Hopefully somebody has a trick so I can use this trigger and not practice holding this thing wrong, I really like how it plays and might consider getting one. I am going to try a get some pictures up to explain better for those who haven't seen this trigger, no google images showed what I want.

P.S. I admit i have smaller hands which probably doesn't help.
Thanks TNFJ,

Ray

[tbn.al]

Mount the ring in the upward position and cradle the horn normally inthe left arm. Put the left hand in the handshake position with the thumb in the ring and the fingers outside the 3rd valve slide. Move the whole arm up and down to actuate the slide. You will have to hold the horn up to your embochure using the right thumb under the valve brace.

[sceuphonium]

The 3rd valve Springy Thingy is a marketing ploy with no practical application. (Now you can theoretically play EVERY NOTE with PERFECT INTONATION!!!)

With a little ingenuity you will find you can disconnect the spring and turn the trumpet slide ring in several directions, none of which are usable or comfortable. Now disconnect the spring (which is far too strong, even if you could move the slide easily). Remove the spring and ring and place them carefully in the case. Play. Enjoy! It's really a nice horn.

Connect it back up right before you sell or pass the horn along, to bemuse and frustrate the next player.

Seriously, does anyone actually USE this thing everyday? Not "I borrowed one for a few days and if I played it all the time, I would..." or "I used to know this guy and he said..." I mean use it constantly, on every passage, like trumpet players use their third valve ring. I had one of these horns a few years back, liked it a lot, but never managed to get my short pudgy fingers CLOSE to the ring.

John Thompson
"Yesterday I played Suite in F with the Columbia Summer Band!"
Columbia SC
That's what euph players live for!!

[tbn.al]

I have only found it useful playing below the bass clef staff. For instance instead of D 124 which is sharp try 34 pull, or for C 1234 pull. No answer for the B natural. It's just not on my horn.

[Bob Kolada]

I have only found it useful playing below the bass clef staff. For instance instead of D 124 which is sharp try 34 pull, or for C 1234 pull. No answer for the B natural. It's just not on my horn.

Al, isn't it supposed to be accompanied by a flat tuned 4th valve? You could also apply the force with 3 or 23 only.


Bob"give me a 4+2 front valve 2280! "Kolada

[tbn.al]

The 4th valve slide is exceptionably long, I suppose to allow pulling it for the B natural. I don't do it because it screws up everything else. The same thing happens when I play a single trigger bass trombone. I vehemently refuse to pull the F attachment slide to get the B natural 'cause it screws up all the other positions. That's why I own a double trigger bass. I have been know to omit the B naturals or just play the entire phrase up the octave to avoid pulling the F slide. I know, I'm just a dissagreable old fart! Can't help myself.

[Bob Kolada]

I have been know to omit the B naturals or just play the entire phrase up the octave to avoid pulling the F slide.

And you call yourself a bass trombonist!!!

[cctubaneeds]

I have tried to hold the horn as mentioned by tbn.al but I can't reach.

IMG_0008.jpg

IMG_0011.jpg

Here is a way I can reach and move it.

IMG_0012.jpg

Would a Z in the thumb ring eventually pull the third slide out of alignment? It would make the thumb ring closer and therefore maybe actually functional.

I find the 4th valve is plenty long to tune for the low register. It is actually similar to how I tuning my tuba. I can get the 4th valve to tune to a TT as well and may try that.

Thanks for the input,

Ray

[tbn.al]

It appears your ring is soldered to the bottom of the slide bow like a 1st valve pull ring on a tuba. If so, it is not like mine. Mine is a moveable ring like the 3rd valve slide on a trumpet mounted on the side of the slide. With yours it looks like the only way to use it would be with the first finger. i believe mine is original.

[sloan]

The first school-owned horn my son brought home was a 2280. The 3rd valve slide was stuck (I don't think anyone had ever greased that slide, because it was too time-consuming to remove).

We took it to a local shop, had the spring removed and the slide unstuck. The pieces went into a baggie in the case.

With that modification, it was an excellent player.

[cctubaneeds]

My pictures must be bad, this is the original ring just like you say.

I am about ready to give up on it like some are saying.

Bob is right, 4+2 front action would be perfect.

Ray