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So I have a Besson 983 that I absolutely love. Problem is that it always plays a bit flat. I recently won my school's concerto competition on this horn and I'm hesitant to switch up any of my setup. Anyone have any idea how to get one of these to ply in tune?

Thanks!

The 983 allegedly is very mouthpiece sensitive. When I tested one I was warned I would go flat with anything bigger than a DW3L. Even with the DW1L I had to pull. But the point may still be that most players should avoid a too large mouthpiece on the 983.

Klausk

So how does the DW3L compare to a GW Matanuska? Not to further complicate the issue, but I have metal allergies and can only play on stainless steel.

Don't know the Manatuska, so others have to help you here.

Klaus

OK, took a look at the G&W site.

The Manatuska looks like being the deeper of 2 models with the same rim and throat features. The Bora being the shallower variant.

Cup depth would be one parameter to change (as always after a thorough test). And then the G&W shanks apparently come in European and Standard (American) dimensions. The 983 likely will take both, but the American size will enter further and hence play a tiny bit sharper. Some mpc theorists have it that it is important for response and more how deep the shank enters the receiver so also try for implications of the shank.

Klaus

Matanuska is a cone shape with a medium sized backbone and the DW3L is a bowl with a straight open back bore. The matanuska has about a 32 mm rim where the DW3L is smaller than that. Based on my experience with both mouthpieces, they will have different gaps too.

I have found that a PT 72 works very well with the BE 983. Unfortunately, I don't know if there's any way of having that kind of mouthpiece made in stainless steel.

What mouthpiece are you using currently?

I used a GW Willawaw for awhile with my 983 and seemed to work out fairly well. I'm not sure how it compares with what you're using but that's my only experience with stainless on my 983. I've found a couple other mouthpieces that I really like but with your metal allergies that wouldn't do you much good. Good luck in your mouthpiece quest.

Get a good tech to cut your main tuning slide. There's plenty of room for a cut and it won't affect the way the horn plays.

Sorry, I meant what mouthpiece was the original poster using. It's hard to recommend a mouthpiece without knowing what he was having the original problem with. His problem could stem from using too deep a cup, a shank that's too large for the receiver so that it sticks out too far, too wide a cup, or any one of a ton of other factors.

I really appreciate all of the advice.


GC
Right now, I'm using a GW Matanuska with this horn. It is an American style shank, and it seats well. I've tried a couple of the other GW Mouthpieces (bora, and Alan Baer signature) but the horn got a little oinky with those.

I think that I may have to go with Alex's advice on this one and cut the main slide a bit.

Anyone know if moving the lead pipe off of the bell would make any difference?

Alex C wrote:Get a good tech to cut your main tuning slide. There's plenty of room for a cut and it won't affect the way the horn plays.

Unfortunately, unless they have changed the design, there is really very little room for a cut to the main tuning slide on a 983.

One can take a bit from the back bow, but the taper is quite aggressive on the throat side.

That together with am shank (as receivers are rather small on the bessons. A G&W am shank sticks quite far out) and a good 1.5" of tubing on the MTS should do a bit.

Guess theres quite a bit of difference on players as I always seem to play sharp on the bessons

hrender wrote:Two words: Sellmansberger Imperial. I believe Joe's sale is still on.

The bloke Imperial has the old narrow shank not fitting the 983. If blokepiece, then the Solo with American shank.

Klaus, who has 3 variants of blokepieces

Bloke's sale page says that he has the Imperial in British, American, and Euro shanks.

Which is new to me, as I though the point of the Imperial variant was the old style narrow shank.

Klaus

Alex C wrote:Get a good tech to cut your main tuning slide. There's plenty of room for a cut and it won't affect the way the horn plays.

Isn't the main slide on a 983 really short already (on the valve-side at least?)?
I'm probably wrong...

Isn't the main slide on a 983 really short already (on the valve-side at least?)?
I'm probably wrong...

In my opinion you are absolutely correct. For reference, I keep a tuning bit in my bag in case the required pitch is too low for the minimal amount of pull I have now. Before that, on more than one occasion I blew the tuning slide out of the horn trying to match a flat pipe organ in a cold loft. I still have a leash tied to the slide, just in case I do that again.

I use the 3L on all my horns, and that started when I bought my 983. Using it enabled me to select my horn from 8 that WWBW had in stock - before I picked up a stock 3L ALL the horns sucked. I suggest you try the 3L. If that doesn't work, try a 24AW. If that solves your problem, someone ought to be able to copy it in Lexan or Stainless. If not, I dunno. But I would NOT ask anyone to cut that tuning slide. If there's another place to cut the horn I'll defer to the experts, but I expect they'll tell you something similar - i.e. NOT at the tuning slide.

So the main slide is awfully short, and I'd be hesitant to cut the horn. All good ideas though. Was planning on taking it to Midwest tomorrow and try out a bunch of mouthpieces, but got snowed in here in southern WI.

Anyone ever move the lead pipe on one of these?