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I know there are as many opinions on this as there are mouth pieces. But using a schilke 69c as a reference how does the
Roger bobo solo series and conn helleberg compare? I'm looking to pick them both up unless they are very similar to the 69c keep in mind I have big lips probably the reason I ended up playing tuba in the first place. Any other suggestions welcome.

JJ

Do get the Helleberg, it's a classic mouthpiece that you should have if you're at all interested, and it will be very different from the Schilke. From "Conn", or the Faxx HB would be a good bet for $50.

I'm unfamiliar with the Bobo mouthpiece(s), I bet it would be closer to your mouthpiece though. Schilke 69C4, right?

I've seen the chart can't make heads or tails of it at my level

JJ

If you don't understand the chart, then a little education is in order. There are a lot of threads on this net that can help you with that. Consider the idea that mouthpieces have several characteristics that affect the sound and comfort of the player. Some of them are: rim internal diameter at the rim, outside rim diameter, shape of the rim (round, flat, etc.), inner edge of the rim, depth of the cup, shape of the cup (cone or cup or something a little different), throat diameter, shape of the throat inside, weight distribution (heavy, light, and other), how far it fits into the receiver (called gap), and few other things that I have missed. Mess with any of these and you have an option. So set down and read a lot of threads and then you might be able to understand the chart and have a better idea what you might want to try. By the way, have you considered talking to your or a local tuba instructor to get some recommendations?

Another good mouthpiece chart is here- this one's from TubeNetter Dave Werden. It has some rim widths and other dimensions as well:

http://www.dwerden.com/Mouthpieces/tuba.cfm" target="_blank

I guess it's not that I don't understand the chart, because I understand the measurements, and design of a mouth piece. However trying to correlate how those measurements apply to me? What fits and provides a certain sound for one may not give the same results for me.. Does that make sense?

JJ

You have now gotten to the right question. The answer is you have to try a lot of mouthpieces. It's called a mouthpiece safari. None of us can tell you what is right for you. You have to discover that for yourself. A good teacher can give you guidance, but the answer is only yours to discover. Enjoy the trip.

Jerryleejr wrote:I guess it's not that I don't understand the chart, because I understand the measurements, and design of a mouth piece. However trying to correlate how those measurements apply to me? What fits and provides a certain sound for one may not give the same results for me.. Does that make sense?

Yes!

Furthermore, even if these charts listed dimensions for the Bobo Solo and the other mouthpieces in question, they'd be limited at best to 3 width dimensions - cup, rim and throat. That would be interesting, because the 69C4 is similar to the Miraphone (used to be) C4, which has an unusually small throat. Does the 69C4 share that particular characteristic (I think so?), and what about the Bobo Solo? Alas, no data. But another key feature of the C4 - it's shallow, and "bowl" shaped. The charts won't give you any clue to that, and they won't tell you much about the rim shape. Those are really important factors, so if it seems to you that the charts fall a little short of a reliable guide to mouthpieces, you're right!

I think your question ("please compare Conn Helleberg and Bobo Solo with the Schilke 69C4"?) is the right way to get basic information about mouthpieces, but hang in there - few if any of us actually know the answer.

pauvog1 wrote:

Jerryleejr wrote:I know there are as many opinions on this as there are mouth pieces. But using a schilke 69c as a reference how does the
Roger bobo solo series and conn helleberg compare? I'm looking to pick them both up unless they are very similar to the 69c keep in mind I have big lips probably the reason I ended up playing tuba in the first place. Any other suggestions welcome.

JJ

What is it about the 69c that you don't like?

It's not that I don't like it, I was just looking to try something different.

JJ

Both of the Yamaha Bobo mouthpieces are similar to a Schilke 69C4.

Without starting a new thread ill post here,
It was suggested that I custom order a 69C4 with a .324 bore
However looking at the bobo symphonic specs it has a .325 bore already so will I notice the .001 difference?
Also the G & W tanuk is only .001 off in both rim and bore from the schilke...

This makes my head hurt and my wallet scared...

JJ

Curmudgeon wrote:

Jerryleejr wrote:This makes my head hurt and my wallet scared...

A great time to stop and use what you have for a while. Get to know the tuba. Add more variables later.

I think your right.

JJ

Curmudgeon wrote:

Jerryleejr wrote:This makes my head hurt and my wallet scared...

A great time to stop and use what you have for a while. Get to know the tuba. Add more variables later.

+ ∞

JJ,

I feel your pain, man. I will wade in here a little. It is inevitable that you'll have to try some mouthpieces to compare to what you have. The Kelly plastic mouthpieces give you something to try that is cheap. Buying used is also a decent option. However, possibly the best thing to do is to buy from Dillon Music or another big store which allows trials and returns. Dillon will let you order multiple mouthpieces to compare, but will charge your credit card. When you return what you don't keep, they will issue a credit. So if you can stand the balance for week or two, you can order several. You could even, I suppose, try out the new ones and settle on something and then return it and buy it on here, used and cheaper. . .

You will need to determine what style of rim you like for comfort and flexibility. Then you will need to determine what internal diameter you like best. If you are looking for bigger, darker tone, a bigger piece will help with that, as that variable is affected most by the volume of the cup and its shape. You can see what diameter works best for you and then adjust the cup depth and shape. If you are going to use a narrower diameter, for example, then you might want to use a deeper cup or one that is more "V" shaped. The Bobo mpcs are built along these lines. The Bobo Symphonic that I have is pretty large in diameter, but the cup is fairly shallow.

You can take a look at the throat size. Smaller throats may require a little less air, all other things being equal (which they often aren't). A bigger throat will take more air and maybe help in going darker. A bigger backbore will also influence your tone, bigger or more outward tapered equaling darker. However, good luck finding much info on backbores---it doesn't seem to be available.

While we most all like bigger and darker tone, you can go too far in that direction and get woofy and hollow, and too big a mpc may make the high register harder. Also, a little brightness in the tone aids in carrying power.

IDK what is available in other threads . . . this is just what one beginner has pieced together . . . good luck in your search. If I have mis-spoken here, I'm sure someone will correct me.