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How do you keep YOUR valves working?

Mike Milnarik

What kind of problems are you having, Mike?

If I am drinking a soft drink or tea while playing, I never use anything containing sugar.

I haven't even had the valves out of the casings in over four years since I bought the horn used.

I use only Hetmans piston and rotary oils before each rehearsal or concert; 6 drops down the lead pipe for the piston valves and 5 drops down the tuning slide for the rotary valve.

I use only Hetmans tuning slide greases.

I drain the tuning slides of water before putting the horn in its hard case when I am finished with it.

Hi Dean,

The tolerances of the valves are so tight that the slightest bit of anything gets in there and the valves hang. That coupled with the plastic valve guides wearing don't provide much confidence that the valves are going to work properly. Wondered what others have done to combat this/fix this.

I posed this question on my facebook page, as well. Got a lot of great responses. If anyone is interested check out my timeline http://www.facebook.com/milnarik" target="_blank Very helpful info!

Thanks for your response, Dean! I appreciate it!

Mike Milnarik

When I got my YFB621 new, I had a lot of vale problems. I had to completely disassemble and scrub it out 5 times before the valves would work properly. These horns tend to come from the factory with a lot of dirt in them.

Just my experience.
Roger

Are your valves seizing entirely, or very sluggish? I clean my MW valves and casings every 1.5-2 weeks or so with white vinegar and a toothbrush. Keeps them quick and problem free.

The valves are quite tight. The need to be lapped to break them in. I used a product called "Finesse It" (3M) (made for power-buffing auto finishes; available at automotive paint suppliers) (this was recommended by an instrument repairman). Remove the valves, disassemble, remove the guides and all felts, reassemble with just the valve and stem.

Give the tuba a bath first, so the casings are clean and dry. Chuck the stem into a variable-speed electric drill. Coat the valve with "Finesse It". Keep the drill speed reasonably slow while moving the valve in and out relatively quickly. Overlap the top and bottom areas of wear. Do this for about 30 seconds, add more product, and repeat. Do 2 or 3 30-second treatments per valve.

Put the tuba back in the bath, clean the casings with a baby bottle brush. Hose off with a garden hose, and reassemble.

The valves will be polished and quite slick, reducing friction between the valve and casing. The change is very noticeable.

Warning: be very focused as you do this. Do not let the drill go haywire, or you could do damage to the valve or casing. However, it is not hard to do. I have done it several times over 10 years with various tubas, without problem.



SK