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I'm looking to change the receiver I have on my York/Nirschl/Lectron horn as the one I have actually has a too big
taper (and does not look particular good (Blush)). Yeah...bling my tuba.

What's out there? For trumpet you can get the most amazing ones....Anything for tuba?
Any Blok'a'ceivers coming?

Hi-
Contact Matt at Dillon Music re. an Adjustable Gap Receiver (AGR)......
Mark

I find the adjusting mechanism of the Dillon AGR to be problematic in daily use... this is based on taking my mouthpiece in and out of a few different horns that had one of those installed.

Adams appears to have arrived upon a design that might prove more sustainable: http://www.adams-music.com/wf/instrumen ... aGnMEBkmSo It would appear that the Adams AGR is now standard on all of their tubas and euphs.

Harrelson came up with this kit for trumpets: http://whyharrelson.weebly.com/gap.html

Some of the later Kanstul tubas have a screw-in receiver piece in different sizes to accomodate different shanks. As to whether they would sell those as an aftermarket part, there's one way to find out.

I have an AGR on my Miraphone 1291. Does it change the color? Yeah... somewhat. Does it make the horn handle or play better? No.

I've 'fiddled' with all sorts of combinations and have pretty much come to the conclusion that the 'Old World' (European) type of leadpipe with NO receiver is probably the best way to truly match a mouthpiece to a horn. It just make sense to me that an unobstructed air flow with the lowest turbulence possible is the way to go.

The very best combination I've seen was an old Carl Wunderlich with no receiver and a Bach 7 with a razor edge on the inside of the end of the mouthpiece.

Trumpet players go nuts over the concept of 'the gap' while other high-end players use mouthpieces and leadpipes that are one solid unit. Go figure!

I agree on the GAP thing and tubas, as there usually ain't no gap (or close to none) as the lead-pipe is very often flush with the receiver,
but you will get a venturi if the receiver is smaller than the MP shank, and unless you sport a very open backbore, you will have a drop

If you should eliminate the drop with same backbore, that would mean smaller bore and eliminating venturi, or a 'ckoke' after the shank
would mean mouthpiece touching leadpipe.....as most or all tuba leadpipes do not have a venturi.

I believe in the "unobstructed air flow with the lowest turbulence possible is the way to go." and use AM
shank to get the lowest drop on my preferred backbore and as little exposed shank as possible

So does gap matters?....On a tuba probably less than the other factors, I want a new receiver mostly due to the look
(and less than ideal fitting)