Rebuilding the BAT (Long)

[Alex C]

What kind of horn are you starting with?

[Peach]

Alex, I believe the horn is a Holton 345 cut from Bb to C.

[royjohn]

Elephant,

Perhaps you know all this, but here it is. You say you don't have any refinishing equipment. If you are looking at buffing to get the horn ready for plating, there are several fairly cheap options. You can look for a used Chinese grinder (~$30 @ flea market of thrift store), remove the wheels and equip it with spin on spindles and buffing wheels. A pair of the spindles is $19 on ebay, so the buffer will be about $65 set up with buffing wheels. You can use it outside or rig it with a shop vac and some cardboard hoods.

Another option for buffing is a dremel from your local pawn shop (they are $10 to $15 here in Knoxville) and an arbor and some small wheels. You can also use emery cloth and crocus cloth and brass polish. A little more work, perhaps, but maybe $15.

If the plating you are looking at, when cleaned up, is worn to the brass only in spots, it may be feasible to spot plate it with a plating pen. All you need is the pen, some acetone to clean the area after it is prepped and the buffing grease is removed and a wall wart of the proper voltage for a power source. You can go over the area several times to increase the thickness of the plating and then polish the plated area as needed. I think the pens are about $60 and they will plate a considerable area, so ultimately it is cheap if you have some areas which are still sound and some which are not.

You are doing such a great job on this horn with what seems like a limited budget, I thought you might want to hear about ways to do some of the finishing yourself.

[Tubajug]

I'm curious, are you playing rep in your orchestra that doesn't require the BAT or are you on a break in order to have time for this project?

Looking good! I'd be interested to know about your new cutting method as well. You can post it here or send me a PM, whichever you'd prefer (if you get the time of course). Thanks Wade!

[TheHatTuba]

I thought of a new way to cut tubing that is more precise. I cut 20 tubes and ferrules today and yesterday. I used my old, very decent and fast way yesterday. Today I came up with something that is far less messy, far more accurate (like factory perfect flat tube ends, but by eyeballing it) and - unfortunately - a good bit more time consuming. I am very pleased with the results.

Looks good so far! If you don't mind sharing, what new way did you come up with to cut them?

[The Big Ben]

I am a super dork, so this is really interesting to me. I know most people couldn't care less how you cut tubing exactly flat and perpendicular to the tube length. But that kind of stuff makes my day sometimes.

I care! Learning how a person teaches himself how to be a better craftsman is always interesting…

Keep it coming!

[The Big Ben]

Nice!

[Tubajug]

I hate bending leadpipes.

So that straight pipe coming out of the valve block is just a reference for where the leadpipe will go?

[royjohn]

Elephant,

I've really enjoyed this thread. It's taken some of the mystery out of tuba mods and made me feel like one day I'll try something. Thanks so much for posting it!

I was interested to hear you talking about silver solder flux. I thought most brass repair was done with 50-50 lead solder, so I'm interested in what you are using (lo temp leadless silver solder? . . . like for plumbing, from Home Depot?) and how it compares to 50-50 lead-tin, 60-40 lead-tin, etc.

Keep them pictures and posts coming!

[roweenie]

Wade,

If you get a chance, can you post a picture of the entire 5th valve linkage assembly, showing all parts of it in one shot? I find the layout to be interesting.

Also, to engage the valve, is the linkage pushing it down, or is it pulling it up?

I too have enjoyed this thread (and the Eb one too) and have learned quite a bit.

Thanks,

Bob

[roweenie]

I guess I had an, as the kids say, an "epic fail" at describing what I was trying to find out.....

My question was specifically limited to the 5th rotor valve. Depressing the spatula will either 1) push the rotor stem clockwise, or 2) pull the rotor stem counterclockwise (or vice-versa?). I've got to assume that this makes a tremendous difference in the design of the linkage system.

Thanks!

[roweenie]

I've never been any good at visualising this kind of stuff - it makes my head swim!

I'll be looking forward to your pictures - - -

[roweenie]

Very clever solution!

Thanks for the clear and precise pictures and description. They were very helpful!

Now, to the drawing board!

[bearphonium]

As someone whose mechanical skills rest with hammering and carrying things for the the real builders, my hat is off to you. I am really enjoying this rebuild thread.

And DP, I loved the happy Elephant picture!!

[roweenie]

Looks fantastic!

[bisontuba]

Great job Wade!! Enjoy!
Mark

[caa62]

I find these rebuild stories to be very interesting and educational. By following along and paying attention to why you are doing things in a certain way, I am picking up a lot of knowledge as to what to look for when a horn doesn't play right. Also why a certain type or layout will demonstrate different tendencies. I'm also, more aware of what to look for design-wise when selecting a horn. Finally, you've helped me form some guidelines as to what repairs I could consider doing myself, which I could trust to my local guy, and which should go to the top-end shop. Thanks!

Please keep posting!

[tofu]

I admire your patience in taking photos during the rebuild - this has been an interesting thread. I wish I could get myself to stop and do photos when I'm doing a car rebuild, but I'm always so focused/pushing to get it done to take the time.

Does the position of the new 5th valve slide change how you hold the horn - your playing position?

[The Big Ben]

That thumb ring/thumb lever looks really good ! Nice work!

[roughrider]

What a terrific job you have done on that horn. Your perseverance and hard work really paid off! The most important statement you have made is "The tuba plays beautifully" and that is all that ever matters anyway. Great Job!