Chem Cleaning

[mTaUrBkA]

I brought my silver plated mirafone 186 rotory tuba into the shop today to get one of the valves unstuck and then found out i needed a chem clean because it was so dirty. There was definately some green junk in there. The repairman said after every time I play I should dump some valve oil down all of the slides. In the past, all of my teachers have said oil my valves only when needed. So I figured maybe go somewhere inbetween the two. What would everyone suggest? Also, what do you think the best methods of oiling rotors are? Also, a little off topic, but what brand of slide grease woudl you suggest? The current no name brand I have been using isn't quick enough to pull my slide in and out while playing. Thanks everyone

~Mark

[Dan Schultz]

If you do a search for 'oiling rotors' you will find 130 matches. Most of the advice is bogus but pay particular attention to the posts of Rick Denney (or is it Denny?)

[JayW]

Well putting a few drops of oil down the lead pipe is something that many people have taken too, I prefer to just keep my horn clean and brush my teeth before I play (making sure to rinse well, since toothpaste would not be too friendly to vlaves methinks)

As for slide grease I encourage you to take a look at Hetmans line of products.....he has several different weight slide greases perfect for just about any application (and you can mix them to "customize" the consistency) Might I add giving a try to his valve oil..... It is super stuff and works very well with his slide grease (i.e. does not dissolve it like many oils seem to do to slide grease)

I oil my valves just about every other day.......but I only have to put slide grease when i clean the horn (once every two months usually) ...it really lasts that long for me

[mTaUrBkA]

I don't know much about tuba care, I stick more to playing. I realize I should learn more about care...so that's what I'm doing. I don't know how to disassemble rotors or anything like that, but can you wash a silver plated rotor horn by yourself. If so, how do you go about doing it?

[Rick Denney]

The repairman said after every time I play I should dump some valve oil down all of the slides.

There's a thread going down the board on lubricating rotary valves right now.

In short, the valve bodies don't need oiling very often, but a little oil helps keep corrosion away. The rotor spindles and linkages need oiling occasionally with a light machine oil, like Nyoil or Hetmans rotor oil.

A few squirts of valve oil down the leadpipe is the preferred way of getting oil to the rotors when you do want to apply oil. I would not recommend squirting it down the slides, because it will dissolve the slide grease and carry it down to the valve, making it gummy.

None of this will prevent green gunk. The only thing that will prevent green gunk is keeping your mouth clean when you play, and cleaning your horn on appropriate intervals (once a year at least).

As for slide grease that allows fast movement, first make sure the slide itself is properly adjusted so that it will move fast. If not, have that repaired by the tech while he's doing the chem clean. I have used everything at one time or another for my Miraphone, which requires a bit of first-slide adjustment. I ended up using a bit of Hetmans slide grease, and then diluting that with the rotor oil and working it until all the stiffness is gone. But everyone has their own favorite approach.

Rick "who needs a chem clean for the Holton" Denney

[Will]

...but what brand of slide grease woudl you suggest?

I actually use anhydrous lanolin, which you could find or order from any pharmacy. And this last forever! (not actually forever but longer than any other stuff I've used)

And it's a good idea to have the tech work on the slide to make sure it's made to move more freely. I was going nuts trying to get my 1st slide to work on my 188. I finally had it worked on when it was cleaned.


-heads

[Rick Denney]

I actually use anhydrous lanolin

Hetman's slide grease has a lanolin base.

But I don't know how to make lanolin fast. The York Master had lanolin on the slides when I bought it, and it took both hands to pull the longer slides, heh, heh. I think Chuck had used it to keep the really loose first valve slide from falling out when the tuba was inverted.

Rick "who likes lanolin for holding slides in place, but who thinks it's not at all fast" Denney

[Will]

I use a very small amount on my slides. If it's too slow, I just cut it with some valve oil (Blue Juice to be exact). I've mastered it to a point where I can get just the right feel for the slide.

The York Master had lanolin on the slides when I bought it, and it took both hands to pull the longer slides, heh, heh.

True, if you use too much and leave them idle for too long, they will become extremely slow. I usually check on them once a week to prevent that. That stuff just last so long. I bought a 1 Lb tub of it that will more than last my lifetime.


-heads

[AndyL]

Hetman also markets SLIDE OIL, which is "just the thing" for my snug-fitting slides. I'm using #4, light tuning slide oil.

[AndyL]

Hetman also markets SLIDE OIL, which is "just the thing" for my snug-fitting slides. I'm using #4, light tuning slide oil.

[Lew]

The best lube that I have used for fast slides is Spacefiller "green." It is a thick liquid that seems to last forever and is extremely slick.

[mTaUrBkA]

Thanks everybody, it's been a lot of help.