TubeNet

Just got a pm from someone that said he had to get his valve parts replaced on his Wessex BBb.... Hmm...

the obvious:
Eating right before you play - especially depending on what you eat - can have an adverse effect on valve action.
I have known anal clarinetists (is there any other kind) who carry around a toothbrush and brush their teeth every time before playing.
When I have had a rehearsal-dinner-concert, I make sure to go to a sink or water fountain and thoroughly rinse my mouth out. Amazing all the stuff that comes out!

Disclaimer: this may have nothing to do with your problem. Then again, it may.

It's not just clarinet players Marty, I always have a toothbrush and toothpaste in my bag... food bits in my mouth/teeth are just plain gross when I'm playing.

In other words, if my valves are sticking, it's from beer, not food.

You have a guarantee from a reputable dealer who is about one hour from where you are. Get Wessex on the phone and get it fixed and quit screwing around with it. You might void your guarantee by making it worse with your "fixing".

The Big Ben wrote:You have a guarantee from a reputable dealer who is about one hour from where you are. Get Wessex on the phone and get it fixed and quit screwing around with it. You might void your guarantee by making it worse with your "fixing".

Work in on it, boss. Not making anything worse. It's really not as complicated as the "screwing around" you've noted. I've had 2 tuba professors show me how to do it properly. If you don't have a constructive comment, stay off the thread. I was just seeing if I could take care of it before they have to take it back for several weeks to do any warranty work. He's a one-man-show for the USA operations for Wessex and can't instantly take care of it.

the elephant wrote:

balchb wrote:f you don't have a constructive comment, stay off the thread.

Well, sounds like you have it all figured out, then. Congratulations on that. Is this thread over now? Just sayin'...

Naw: dollars to donuts he'll have some more public commentary before letting Jonathan make it right for him.

the elephant wrote: Well, sounds like you have it all figured out, then. Congratulations on that. Is this thread over now? Just sayin'...

Don't like it, don't read it. Pretty simple...

(By the way, smart guy, he made a constructive comment. Maybe you need to look that term up while you work furiously to drop that chip off your shoulder.)

"Perhaps you should consider stopping until they have a chance to handle it" would have been a little more courteous way to put it...?? Sorry to have stepped on Big Ben and Elephant's overly-sensitive toes...

UncleBeer wrote: Naw: dollars to donuts he'll have some more public commentary before letting Jonathan make it right for him.

Manufacturer defect isn't what crossed my mind with a sticky valve and a little black on the inside... I tried the warm water rinse down the lead pipe and then water/dish soap, and it didn't work. Andy wanted to see if oiling/playing would free up the horn and I didn't want to make a huge case out of it. I came here to get help, which usually is a great place to get questions answered. After seeing that the black on the inside wasn't coming off with just simply taking out the rotor and brushing it off, I went a step further. Perhaps it wasn't the smartest move being under warranty, but it didn't hurt anything.

By the way - the other valves work much better after the chem cleaning. I guess I "have it all figured out then"

Thank you for the other helpful comments. I'm going to hang tight from here on out.

balchb wrote: I came here to get help

And why not go directly to the retailer with your concerns, instead of airing them in public? Jonathan's get a sterling reputation for making things right, when that's what the customer's after.

UncleBeer wrote:

balchb wrote: I came here to get help

And why not go directly to the retailer with your concerns, instead of airing them in public? Jonathan's get a sterling reputation for making things right, when that's what the customer's after.

Good question - and probably ignorance on my part with being unaware of the 3-year defect guarantee. Had I known that, I probably would have thought twice before a full dismantle/cleaning. I think it was Kiltie Tuba that first mentioned it on the thread... my mistake.

I never intended for this to be a public slam on Wessex. I thought I was outside of a 7-day/30-day risk-free trial (again, should have checked). In fact, I mentioned being quite pleased with the instrument, just frustrated with the valve. I've promoted this brand to numerous band directors in my area and I'll very likely buy from them in the future. The BBb "Luzern" was a GREAT horn when I tried it as was a bass bone. Andy was very courteous and answered the many questions I had.

My sincere apology to Jonathan and Andy if I've over-stepped any boundary or gave a bad impression on Wessex... that was definitely not my intent.

Nobody has stepped on my toes. I guess you get what you pay for when you come to the TNFJ for your advice.

the elephant wrote:This is better entertainment than network television. Oh, wait...

+1

First thing, I would be careful of using synthetic oils as they will leave a residue on the valve and inside the casing. Over time the valve will get sluggesh and can be a pain to clean out properly.

Tom

mctuba1 wrote:First thing, I would be careful of using synthetic oils as they will leave a residue on the valve and inside the casing. Over time the valve will get sluggesh and can be a pain to clean out properly.

Tom

+1

balchb wrote:Good question - and probably ignorance on my part with being unaware of the 3-year defect guarantee. Had I known that, I probably would have thought twice before a full dismantle/cleaning. I think it was Kiltie Tuba that first mentioned it on the thread... my mistake.

Good, you are learning fast. Remember, it is always someone else's fault, even if they give sound advice based on the limited facts available.
For your final lesson, repeat after me ten times:
"It is never my fault, it is never my fault..."

MartyNeilan wrote:

balchb wrote:Good question - and probably ignorance on my part with being unaware of the 3-year defect guarantee. Had I known that, I probably would have thought twice before a full dismantle/cleaning. I think it was Kiltie Tuba that first mentioned it on the thread... my mistake.

Good, you are learning fast. Remember, it is always someone else's fault, even if they give sound advice based on the limited facts available.
For your final lesson, repeat after me ten times:
"It is never my fault, it is never my fault..."

Thank you for that completely unnecessary post.

mctuba1 wrote:First thing, I would be careful of using synthetic oils as they will leave a residue on the valve and inside the casing. Over time the valve will get sluggesh and can be a pain to clean out properly.

Tom

I appreciate your thoughts, Tom.

imperialbari wrote:

mctuba1 wrote:First thing, I would be careful of using synthetic oils as they will leave a residue on the valve and inside the casing. Over time the valve will get sluggesh and can be a pain to clean out properly.

Tom

+1

Huge Big +1.... Since I stopped using synthetic oils & grease months ago and went back to conventional oils and regular grease, all my horns have no more 'gunk' inside the valves casings or slides and the valves & slides more freely.......
Mark

I can say from experience that Jonathan will get this sorted out given the chance. He and Andy have taken very good care of me in the past and he has access to considerable resources to do so. His products are maturing very nicely and his 3 year warranty against defect I think is quite generous given how responsive he is on support issues.

I can also say from experience that the rotary valves on these horns can be somewhat frustrating when first getting the horn set up. These issues are known to Jonathan and he is taking positive steps to refine them each generation. But I can certainly understand the OP's frustrations. I brought mine into about the best repair resource you can get and came out with a list of suggestions for future modifications which I sent back to Jonathan for his notes. Jonathan has been very receptive of such input and I like the fact that we can participate in the maturation process.

Part of finding happiness on TubeNet means sifting out the valuable details and discarding the anger baiting and occasionally brilliant humor that you will find here.

You know, 40 grit sandpaper in a belt sander will take out any out of round spots on that valve...

___

With my Jinbao bass bone, the rotors were bad when I got it. I cleaned them, oiled them and then tried again they still stuck. I rebent one of the linkages slightly and that helped. Finally, I coated the valve in Brasso, stuck it in the casing and spun it about 10 times, I then degreased and cleaned a couple times and the valves now work fine.
I suspect it might have been a small burr on the sharp edge of the ports on the valve itself....

A white (staedtler) eraser would have probably been abrasive enough to remove the burr....

↑ Probably voids your warranty...
______

How does it spin in the casing when not attached to the linkage? How does it spin on just the back bearing? Or just the front bearing? Where does it Catch, have you tried looking in that position to see if there are visible spots of catching? Is there lateral play, vertical play? Was the third slide bumped against something at some point?

PMeuph wrote:You know, 40 grit sandpaper in a belt sander will take out any out of round spots on that valve...

___

With my Jinbao bass bone, the rotors were bad when I got it. I cleaned them, oiled them and then tried again they still stuck. I rebent one of the linkages slightly and that helped. Finally, I coated the valve in Brasso, stuck it in the casing and spun it about 10 times, I then degreased and cleaned a couple times and the valves now work fine.
I suspect it might have been a small burr on the sharp edge of the ports on the valve itself....

A white (staedtler) eraser would have probably been abrasive enough to remove the burr....

↑ Probably voids your warranty...
______

How does it spin in the casing when not attached to the linkage? How does it spin on just the back bearing? Or just the front bearing? Where does it Catch, have you tried looking in that position to see if there are visible spots of catching? Is there lateral play, vertical play? Was the third slide bumped against something at some point?

I'm pretty sure that would void the warranty

I think I put on the back plate before checking to see if it was the front bearing catching. Changing the angle of the horn does alter the valve's performance.

KiltieTuba wrote:I think we could do with no more replies from the OP until the matter is solved by Wessex Tubas as his tuba is still under the "3 year warranty"...

The matter is being resolved now. Thank you for the helpful comments. Thank you Andy and Jonathan for your help and great customer service.

58mark wrote:Little jealous that you live so close. To be able to go there and try out a horn in person us a luxury most of us don't have

I hope to go there more - the Luzern BBb is a great horn, and I really want to try out the sousaphones. If I had the money right now, I'd probably seriously consider the compensating euphonium as well.

The current tuba professor at a university in the Grand Rapids area recommended Wessex, and yes, it's great that he was right next door!