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Without seeing Ulli's tuba, I cannot comment further. What is his problem, is a mystery.

Again today I tried tuba with Z valves which was played extensively 3 weeks ago (I used for Prokofiev 5) and has been left untouched since. No hesitation of sticking from any of the valves which all moved smoothly without even any lubrication...

My experience is they are the most reliable type of rotary valve.

Wyvern wrote:Without seeing Ulli's tuba, I cannot comment further. What is his problem, is a mystery.

Again today I tried tuba with Z valves which was played extensively 3 weeks ago (I used for Prokofiev 5) and has been left untouched since. No hesitation of sticking from any of the valves which all moved smoothly without even any lubrication...

My experience is they are the most reliable type of rotary valve.

Just a thought and a question, are you guys really recommending Hetman #12 for the inside of rotary valves? I dont care what the hetman site states as the thickness of the oil alone os way too much. It doesnt matter how good the quality of the valve as even the most expensive high end rotary valves will certainly experience sluggishness after regular oiling due to the residue that developes. Also, check the viscosity of the #12 and compare it to any non synthetic rotary/piston oils and you will see its about 2 to 3 times thicker, not good for any valve unless the valve is totaly worn and ready for a serious valve job and replating.

My opinion, use synthetic oils on piston valves only, these are easy to remove about once a month, clean, and reinstall as in many cases will be needed to keep the valve working properly. If you are like me and dont like removing valves once a month to clean them, then put the hetman away.

On another thought, i see posters write from time to time commenting about black stuff in the valves, can someone please take a picture of this and email it to me? Also, with the pic, ad the age of the horn? I ask because in over 6 years of selling these horns with over 6 thousand instruments sold, i have never seen it myself. I am not saying it doesnt exist as it only makes sense that it would exist, i jist want to see what it looks like. Most likely its residual lapping compound that is overlooked at the factory? Just a guess on my part.

Tom, I tryed Hetmans- never again.
For the bearing pins I use Kreul B411 Mechanic oil, and now I try for the rotors La Tromba T3 ultra thin. Until now no problems with La Tromba.

I am not able to show a picture here in TubeNet- I asked 58mark therefore- but I' ll send you a picture to your e- mail.
Ulli