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I recently acquired a old helicon with stuck tuning slides. I know about using a cloth to try and pull them but that won't work in this case. I'm thinking penetrating oil and then trying to pull again. Is wd40 the thing to use or is there something better? Any other suggestions before going to a tech?

goodgigs wrote: (WD-40 was developed to Dry Wiring).

Yup. "WD" stands for Water Displacement. Factoid of the day.

A small torch and light tapping from a small rawhide mallet combined with penetrating oil and the twisting suggestions could also help.

Some of my high school band director acquaintances claim that their students' fathers like to use a hammer with either a 1 x 2 board or possible a screwdriver to bang the slide out. This method is also popular for remove stuck valves.

Stryk wrote:

Mark wrote:Some of my high school band director acquaintances claim that their students' fathers like to use a hammer with either a 1 x 2 board or possible a screwdriver to bang the slide out. This method is also popular for remove stuck valves.

This is the method many repair shops suggest BEFORE sending the instrument in for repair.

Yeah.... I just LOVE those flattened places on the inside of slide crooks! Those are nearly impossible to fix.

That's EASY to fix:

Find another tuba just like it (except in better condition) on eBay, buy it, take the crook off the better one, and use it to replace the ruined crook on your other tuba.

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Well. Isn't that convenient?

bloke wrote:.....
That's EASY to fix:

Find another tuba just like it (except in better condition) on eBay, buy it, take the crook off the better one, and use it to replace the ruined crook on your other tuba.

The only problem here is that I am the sap who buys those beat-up POS that no one else wants!

SInce what is holding the slide in place is the old grease 'tar' stuff, I found that using a hair dryer to heat the area will change the viscosity of whatever is keeping it stuck in there, and THEN pull the slide. I've used that trick on several horns. If there isn't any lacquer to worry about bubbling or otherwise damaging, try a heat gun- THEN pull. OH- use gloves or wrap slide with a rag: it's gonna be very warm! Good luck- it should work

If you can get your hands on some - "Corrosion Cracker" (available from Ferees) it has always worked for me. It is not a penetrating oil - but rather is formulated to break down corrosion. I have found that it can take about a week for it to work in extreme cases. Patience is important.

Ferees has an online site and will sell to anyone.

The other mechanical techniques mentioned above are great and in conjunction with the 'CC' should do the trick. I remember way back, Bob Pallansch had fashioned a vibrating tool from an old electric carving knife and brazed on a rod with that had a rubber tip on the end. He claimed the vibrations would eventually break things loose. It did work. I also remember a case that was much more extreme where I actually unsoldered the crook, resoldered only one side of it, and used the old 'door latch' method of torquing it back and forth. Though that was really a "last resort" on an older POS and not a big deal, it is quick, if you are an ace with soldering and the 'torch' but is messy. I've also used a vibrating electric sander with just the rubber pad to transfer fibrations. Lots of tricks out there. Once I needed to machine a rod to match the inside tube diameter of the outside slide. I removed the slide assembly and inserted the rod and drove out the inner slide from the inside end of the slide. That was on a 100+ year old horn that was really really crusted. But DIY is not always the best route. Fun stories.

Not to mention that it's always possible that some sort of damage to the slide is what's keeping it stuck. This plus old gunked-up grease can be a real drag.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I tried the good penetrating oil, light tapping and the heat gun. I had some luck. I tried to twist a very small amount, but was afraid to go to far and break the bracing. I got the main tuning slide and the third valve to loosen. The tubing for valves 1 and 2 are not moving. There is a bit of soldering along with internal cleaning and valve alinement needed. I think it is time to bring it in and have a professional work on it. This horn dates from 1893 and likely hasn't been touched for more than 50 years. Restoring old horns has its challenges.

Now does anyone have an old brass finger button for an 1890's horn?

Ferrees Corrosion Cracker Oil is worth a try. They make it from another commercial product. Ferrees also stocks an assortment of special slide pliers which may or may not work, depending on the horn.

Kroil and Gibbs are true penetrating oils. Kroil does need to be completely cleaned out as it is quite strong. After soaking take and use a hair dryer to heat just the receiver section of tubing until quite warn. Don't over heat as the finish can be discolored. Heat as evenly as possible. Brass expands a lot. the heat will help draw in the oil. Than chill the slide and only the slide. Keyboard dust spray will work. Ice will work. Very cold water will work. That will cause the slide to contract. than try pulling. When it moves lubricate the first little bit and push back in. work it back and forth in small increments adding oil before pushing in.( reduces the chance or scoring the slide.) Reheating and cooling could be needed

If you can find it, there is a product that can be used for modeling various shapes. One of my tech friends demonstrated it to me the other day.
It comes is pellet form and is mixed with water to form a "putty-like" clay. It then can be formed to fit in the inside of crook of the tuning slide. (I know this is hard to describe) Unlike epoxy putty, it does not stick to the metal of the slide. When it hardens you can tap on it with a heavy dowel or rawhide mallet to drive out the slide. The concept is that you are striking the surface of the hardened putty which is in total conformation with the slide. Hence no chance of denting or deforming the slide. The putty is water soluble and can be reformed.

If I can locate a link to the product I will add it at a later time. I should be available from instrument repair suppliers.

I had a slide on my Eb tuba that still was not moving even after much PB Blaster and thermal cracking. I made a jig out of pieces of plywood that distributed force across as many sturdy elements as possible and used a C-clamp on that to pull the slide. It's still tough to move but at least I now it CAN move.

Mark wrote:Some of my high school band director acquaintances claim that their students' fathers like to use a hammer with either a 1 x 2 board or possible a screwdriver to bang the slide out. This method is also popular for remove stuck valves.

Stryk wrote: This is the method many repair shops suggest BEFORE sending the instrument in for repair.

TubaTinker wrote: Yeah.... I just LOVE those flattened places on the inside of slide crooks! Those are nearly impossible to fix.

Stryk wrote: I have seen some parents do some stupid things to instruments - most involving vice grips!

Maybe that's why they're not called "virtue grips"?