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My 5-rotary valve CC is a great horn. Its valves are quick and slick, but they clank like hell. Every single one of them. It sounds to me as though the noise is coming from inside the valves themselves, not the linkages. Any suggestions?

Zaphod Beeblebrox wrote:My 5-rotary valve CC is a great horn. Its valves are quick and slick, but they clank like hell. Every single one of them. It sounds to me as though the noise is coming from inside the valves themselves, not the linkages. Any suggestions?

Sell the tuba, buy a new one...

Ok, joking aside...

1. Are you sure it's from the inside? Have you tried turning and moving the rotor with the linkages disabled?
2. Are the backplates on securely?

Watch this video if you haven't before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKp4NEZP4Sc" target="_blank

If the noise is coming from the valve and the back plates are securely on, then take it to a tech, on a tech will be able to fix it...(Take it to a good tech)

If the noise if coming from the rotors:
http://www.rickdenney.com/valve_linkages.htm" target="_blank

Meinl 32, probably made in the late 70s (I'm guesstimating here due to Meinl's atrocious serial numbering system).

58mark wrote:here's what worked on an old Cerveny of mine is used to own.

this may not be your issue, but it's practically a free fix, so it's worth a shot

lay a small piece of teflon tape over the valve step (no need to wrap it, you're just creating a little extra mass and filler for the valve stem)

Push the stop arm over the stem, and then tighten the screw. On my cerveny it really helped lkeep the valves quiet, though I don't really understand why

+1, stop arm might have too much play.

Stop! Take it to a qualified repair tech who can properly diagnose what is going on. It can be one or more of the following: improperly seated bearing plate, worn bearings, dirty valves and casings, loose and/or worn linkages, lack of proper lubrication. If the horn hasn't been serviced in a while, it needs it. Get it properly cleaned and then the tech can suggest the best course of action.

Sorry for the rant but I've had too many shade tree "repairs" this fall that could have been prevented if properly addressed.

Where are you located? There are quite a few techs on this forum that would be able to help you.

chhite wrote:Stop! Take it to a qualified repair tech who can properly diagnose what is going on. It can be one or more of the following: improperly seated bearing plate, worn bearings, dirty valves and casings, loose and/or worn linkages, lack of proper lubrication. If the horn hasn't been serviced in a while, it needs it. Get it properly cleaned and then the tech can suggest the best course of action.

Sorry for the rant but I've had too many shade tree "repairs" this fall that could have been prevented if properly addressed.

Where are you located? There are quite a few techs on this forum that would be able to help you.

+1
They're are many things that can cause clanks, clicks, and other noises coming from rotors. The ones listed above, plus others. One I commonly fix is worn hinge tubes. Excessive play in a hinge tube (tube at the end of the paddle, that has a rod passing through all paddles) is a sure fire "clanker." A good tech will be able to find the noise quickly.

I'm in the vicinity of Chicago.

Chicago? Then Dana Hofer is your man:

http://www.danahoferbrassrepair.com" target="_blank

+1 for Dana.

Check his facebook page. Dana does amazing work for amazing people.

You know, since Bort is the third person to recommend Dana to me, I just may go with him

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dana-Hof ... 2039005209

+1 for Dana.

Check his facebook page. Dana does amazing work for amazing people.

He is excellent.

+1 on taking it to a great brass tech - I futzed with all kinds of things on the piggy and only got more frustrated. A nice drive and quick visit to Bloke's had it playing better than it has in years.

I think he's a bit longer drive from you than me, but it sounds like you have another very good referral.

Ricko

Alright. I've determined that the clankiness is not a linkage problem. I took the arm off the valve, and I can see that the valve itself is clanking. Should I pound the valves out and clean them? I've done that on other tubas before.

Zaphod Beeblebrox wrote:Alright. I've determined that the clankiness is not a linkage problem. I took the arm off the valve, and I can see that the valve itself is clanking. Should I pound the valves out and clean them? I've done that on other tubas before.

As I said before:

PMeuph wrote: Watch this video if you haven't before.(And watch the two next ones after it.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKp4NEZP4Sc" target="_blank

A proper cleaning is something that you should know how do and do regularly.

Disclaimer, if you don't want to use muriatic acid

PMEuph, I know. I was asking whether or not a normal cleaning could solve internal valve clanking.

Zaphod Beeblebrox wrote:.... I was asking whether or not a normal cleaning could solve internal valve clanking.

No, the cleaning itself will not....

But, replacing the back bearing plate properly could* (as is shown in the video) and it doesn't hurt to follow the advice in the video....

PM "who was trying to say there is more advice in that video than a short paragraph on this forum can explain, besides the usual "take it to a tech"" euph

Be sure the back plate is on all the way (check from a side vantage point if it is level with the other valves).

Proper lubrication can also reduce noise, you may need a heavier oil for the spindle bearings if the clearance is larger than average or the horn is older or worn out. Cleaning should smooth out the action, not reduce clanking...

Use a repair tech if the above points in this thread don't correct the problem.

Could it be possible that I just need to get my linkages replaced?

Oh, Bloke. What would we do without you?