TubeNet

For the repairmen and anyone that has had this done, what is a ballpark number?

I have an old tuba that I love but I'm afraid that the valves are going to have to be rebuilt soon. I realize that all jobs are different but I'm just curious as to what I'm going to have to start saving. It's a 4 valve BBb.

Any information is appreciated.
Thanks.

I was recently quoted minimally $200 per valve for a total work over of rotors. That could change depending on lots of factors, either up or down.

I'm just about to buy a new valve set for what would be about 1000usd.

You are reading my mind,I was thinking about the same. I have new tuba,but I messed up with the first and the second rotor while opening them. I am thinking about START saving some money to do the repair,soon I hope:))

Rebuilding and refitting rotors is a heckofalot more complicated than refitting pistons and should be left to only those shops that have the specialized equipment and knowledge.

Generally... unless the rotors are on a horn of major historic value... I think I would quote to simply replace them with new ones.

Does Andersons rebuild rotary valves?

Z-Tuba Dude wrote:Does Andersons rebuild rotary valves?

I've had Anderson copper plate rotors prior to me lapping them back into the housings but it's a long process with not always good results. The functionality of rotors depends on all of the surfaces from one end of the rotor to the other to be perfectly concentric... something that's not easily done without specialty grinding equipment. None of the surfaces of a rotor are straight. The bearing shafts AND the rotor body itself are angled.

To my knowledge Anderson only rebuilds piston/casing sets.

Are you looking at a rotor bearing refit or rotor valve assembly rebuild? The latter is considerably more involved. When I rebuild a rotor assembly, the rotor may go thru as many as three plating stages and require the making of proper fitting, replacement back bearings.



$200 a valve is a minimum but realistically it is closer to $300 and often more. Typically I find tubas also require extensive work on the the lever hinged and linkage.



Its a rather involved undertaking that can also involve the need to unsolder the slides and casings in order to perform the array of machine tasks that may be required. I perform this more often on french horns.



You can replace the complete rotor set with new but on some instruments thats a tall order because a matching bore size may no longer be available. Its also not cheap and typically requires exchanging all of the slides, braces and retrofitting the stop arms and lever assemblies unless you are planning there replacement as well. The idea of just installing replacement rotors is also a stretch decease if the rotor is badly worn, so is the casing and bearings. Its not at all cut and dry. I have a fair amount of experience with the process of rebuilding both piston and rotor valves and know first hand the pitfalls but I can tell you that it is quite doable and if performed with care and an attention to detail, it can really bring an old horn back to life and make it a lot of fun to play.

Daniel C. Oberloh
Oberloh Woodwind and Brass Works
http://www.oberloh.com

58mark wrote:ok, one of you tech guys answer me this. Since the only part of a rotor that contacts anything else is on the bearings, why should a rotor ever need rebuilding?

Swedge the bearing, sure, but rebuild the rotors? why?

A player might not know wear on the bearings is happening until the bearings are worn to the point where the rotors are dragging inside the housings.

Keep those bearings oiled frequently.

I'm going to get my whole valve cluster removed to send to these guys:

http://www.voigt-brass.de/gxshop/index. ... -TUBA.html" target="_blank

Should have done it years ago.

PaulTkachenko wrote:I'm going to get my whole valve cluster removed to send to these guys:

http://www.voigt-brass.de/gxshop/index. ... -TUBA.html" target="_blank" target="_blank

Should have done it years ago.

Interesting. However... I didn't see any prices. Did I miss something?

No prices but they quoted me about 900 Euros (subject to seeing the actual valves). I didn't thunk that was bad...

I've done some tweaking and rotors 1-3 are now virtually noise free. However, number 4 is still clanking. I've noticed that it has some up and down movement within the casing. The backing plate is seated properly and the stop arm is on securely. Is this a bearing problem?