TubeNet

I know that a lot of people on here rave about the big sound that BMB horns get. However, my question is in regards to their durability. Do they hold up? Can you have one for years without it falling apart like Jinbaos are known to? Thanks in advance.

My biggest concern with the BMB is the rubber band 5th valve. If you get that replaced with normal metal linkage, you'll probably be okay.

bort wrote:My biggest concern with the BMB is the rubber band 5th valve. If you get that replaced with normal metal linkage, you'll probably be okay.

Much easier--use two rubber bands-if one breaks, you have a spare--it is very cost effective, to say the least, & gets the job done perfectly....
Mark

bort wrote:My biggest concern with the BMB is the rubber band 5th valve. If you get that replaced with normal metal linkage, you'll probably be okay.

I'd thought of that, but this isn't really my biggest concern. I'm talking more about the soldering, the brass's resistance to scratching/denting, etc. etc.

jonesmj wrote:

bort wrote:My biggest concern with the BMB is the rubber band 5th valve. If you get that replaced with normal metal linkage, you'll probably be okay.

Much easier--use two rubber bands-if one breaks, you have a spare--it is very cost effective, to say the least, & gets the job done perfectly....
Mark

With all due respect, for a $6k(?) tuba, "cost effective" doesn't really make a lot of sense. I've tried a few BMBs, and besides the durability, I just didn't like the feel at all. A real head scratcher to me. Oh well, my opinion is one of many!

I would be really checking out the threads on the valve caps. The few that I have seen have not been machined well. Also check out the thumb ring contraption thing. Gotta be a better design for that.

The rubber band thing is all sorts of cool IMO.

I'll stick my neck out as a proud owner to say that BMB tubas are no more likely to fall apart than any other brand. The lacquer is excellent, although I would prefer raw brass.
The thumb ring on mine is very comfortable, but not quite in the right place for my hand. (They never are.) It would be easy to re-position it without fear of damaging the instrument because it is not mounted on any valve tubing, but I actually prefer sticking my thumb under the dummy tubing on which the ring is mounted. The valve cap threads are not as bad as some tubas. They don't thread themselves, but it's easy to master them with a little practice. As for dent resistance, they are brass, like any other tuba. The gig bag that came with mine is not my favorite design, but it is durable, gives excellent protection, and has the best shoulder straps of any bag I have ever tried. The fairly-large bore valve section makes the tuba more free-blowing than many piston tubas, and I don't have to reach far or bend my wrist to reach the pistons, as I do with many other tubas.
The main thing is intonation; far better than most other brands.

58mark wrote:Can a hair scrunchie be used instead of a rubber band? They are much more durable

58mark wrote:I've used hair scrunchies as a return spring for a 2nd valve kicker before. Don't know why it wouldn't work as a replacement for the rubber band on a BMB tuba.

Never had one break, but they do get weaker after a while. I changed it out every two or three years

I'm excited there's been a Monster Weights sighting.

I have both the BMB F and CC BAT. (both 5 valvers) The rubber band issue intrigued me. Kind of like a Rolls Royce tuba with a K-Mart 5th valve.
My temporary solution was to use O-rings. They're a bit sturdier and cosmetically, black is a bit more cool looking, if that is your game. You can adjust the tension simply by twisting it over and over. So far after a year and a half I'm still on the same one.

Finally I have all the parts collected to add both a bar to rest the hand with a fixed thumb ring, and also to build the thumb trigger with 2 ball joints. For me, the rotation of the spindle on the rotar turns away from my hand, Like from 1 to 4 o'clock and with my poor arthritic thumb causes considerable discomfort. A thumb lever positioned the way I would like it moves differently and is much more comfortable.

Would I can this horn because of those issues. NO WAY. The intonation is right on the money, mine has no real serious quirks. Yes it blows open on every note, top to bottom. I did a concert band rehearsal this morning and was able to play supper piano and with a velvet sound and where it was loud, it produced an enormous gravitas that could lift the entire band with out sounding harsh.

I wish the lead pipe were about 2 inches lower, but that will happen shortly. Dragging a tuba rest(Stand) around is a pain, but for now at least it is the only way to be able to position the horn. It does balance beautifully on the rest, and I experience no tension in my arms and shoulders whatsoever.

Braces and soldering: Yes I did have 2 that were loose. 5 minutes with the flux and a torch and that was a non issue.
I have had to resolder the thumb ring brace about 3 times on each horn. I think Dick Barth has addressed that issue in later tubas. The last time I used a harder solder that seems to hold better. I also soldered the adjustment screws as they would ALWAYS work loose, just when it was inconvenient.

I try to look at the big picture with the BMBs. They are very new on the market and a few little issues to work out. But the bugle itself for me is the best I have ever had the chance to own. And when I try the 20+K horns I am not envious.
The valves on both of mine are dead quiet and slick and smooth - almost disturbingly quiet. I do use a special pad in the valve that is much quieter than felt.

So, as far as little annoying tweaks, every horn will need something done to it sooner or later. If you really care about things like ergonomics you will probably want and/or need to have things adjusted on any instrument. The analogy is like buying a suit "off the rack" compared to have one "made to measure."

My honest feeling is that the BMBs are truly great horns, that are hard to find. Both let me translate my musical ideas into gorgeous and interesting sound, with an ease that I have rarely experienced in other tubas.

My sound concept is somewhere between Arnold Jacobs and John Fletcher and the BMBs will help you achieve that. If you are in a different camp, perhaps something else is better suited to you.

When I refer to making custom alterations to the tuba, bear in mind I do have my own little shop in the garage and can handle most things on my own. Since I had always been so particular about certain things, a personal shop was something I felt I had to set up as shop fees and time were rather an obstacle to getting done what I wanted and needed.

Paul "who always likes to tinker and dickle around trying one more tweak to achieve nirvana in the tuba" Maybery

BMBs are well built in my opinion. In the last few years the only issue I had was with the thumb ring mount on my 4/4 because it was attached on a single point. It popped off in my hand one rehearsal. If you carry it in a bag then that thumb ring is going to be the first point of contact with the inside of the bag and a poor mount will weaken over time. I had Dana Hofer reattach it and add an extra brace to it. No problems since. Since that time the BMB thumb ring mounts are (I believe) now all attached with a much better factory mount.

The rubber band issue has also never truly been a problem. I prefer decent tension on the thumb and use 3 good quality rubber bands. If one ever breaks then I simply replace (happened once in two years). I can understand how this would make people nervous but in a way it is a very fault tolerant solution and you quickly learn to stop worrying and love the rubber bands. Having control over the tension with choice and number of bands quickly becomes a very nice perk.

The valve cap threading has been mentioned. Make sure you check it if you are looking at one. Also, check the rotor in the casing and make sure it does not play up and down on the axis while you are moving the pistons.

Valve cap threads have improved with use. Screwing them off and on, if not cross threaded, sets the threads a little cleaner and smoother and it seems all those issues of cross threading do not happen any more. I also found that a little downward pressure when tightening and an upward pressure or tug when removing them helps burnish the threads a bit. This was the same issue with my Jinbao euphonium. Things are fine now.