The price or getting a tuba rebuilt (more or less)

[EMC]

Just wanting to know more or less the price of rebuilding my tuba and if some of you could point me in the right direction for said job I'd appreciate it thanks!

[bort]

My opinion -- rebuilding is pretty extreme, and can often be unnecessary. A lot of repair people probably wouldn't be seeking out projects like this, and would encourage less extreme solutions instead. Besides the costs (guessing $2K+?), you're looking at a LOT of time (guessing 6 months to a year?). Could be more money or more time depending on where it is sent. I've heard the Oberloh backlog is years long. Best to call around and get in line... IF people are even interested to take on the work.

The good news is that the same people who can break down and rebuild a tuba are also able to troubleshoot and identify less extreme fixes to repair it. Even just a regular servicing and cleaning can make a lot of BIG improvements to a horn that hasn't been recently serviced.

Just call ahead and SCHEDULE the service. Summer is a busy time for these folks, so be prepared to be patient!

Good luck!

[bisontuba]

Hi-
I think prices on an overhaul on a tuba greatly vary due to:
-# of valves
-# piston or rotor
-#Size of horn--3/4, 4/4, 5/4, 6/4
-#Lacquer or Silver

A real ball park price IMHO...$4,500-$8,000

And don't call the repairman in 10 days asking if it is done yet !

Mark

[Dan Schultz]

There are several folks on this forum who can perform overhauls. The price can range wildly depending on the horn, the finish, and how deep an 'overhaul' you want. If you want to quickly see how one company interprets the term 'overhaul' this place can provide an understandable guideline.

Phillips Music Corporation
17668 State Highway B,
Kirksville, MO 63501
660-665-5889
phillipspmc@hotmail.com" target="_blank

[EMC]

Thanks everyone!

[Alex C]

Prices vary greatly based on extent of work needed and the type of work the repairman does. I saw prices from $800 to $4,000. The price can go much higher.
1) Go to Google.
2) Type "tuba overhaul"
3) Read the links to Oberloh, Tubameister, Dillion and others for information and prices
4) Continue your search until you have an idea of what you want done and how much you can afford to spend
5) Talk to former customers
6) Make a decision

[Billy M.]

If you're talking about getting your Alex 163 rebuilt, I would recommend Lee Stofer. It is expensive, but his work is top notch.

[Tom]

I'll phrase my response slightly differently than the others...your cost for the rebuild:

1. It depends what you are starting with.
2. It depends what you want the end result to be.
3. It depends what your idea is of how soon your project should be done.

The only person that can tell you what it will really cost to do your project is the person you actually ask to give you an estimate. That person will (trust me) want to see the instrument in person and go over very thoroughly what you actually want to have done. Nobody here really knows what you're starting with and what you want to end up with.

Another thing to consider is how quickly and easily you may find yourself upside-down on your instrument. If you just spent $10,000 on working on a Miraclone, for instance, you're invested many times its market value and almost certainly will never recoup your investment should you decide to sell it. Then again, maybe you don't care.

[EMC]

I'll phrase my response slightly differently than the others...your cost for the rebuild:

1. It depends what you are starting with.
2. It depends what you want the end result to be.
3. It depends what your idea is of how soon your project should be done.

The only person that can tell you what it will really cost to do your project is the person you actually ask to give you an estimate. That person will (trust me) want to see the instrument in person and go over very thoroughly what you actually want to have done. Nobody here really knows what you're starting with and what you want to end up with.

Another thing to consider is how quickly and easily you may find yourself upside-down on your instrument. If you just spent $10,000 on working on a Miraclone, for instance, you're invested many times its market value and almost certainly will never recoup your investment should you decide to sell it. Then again, maybe you don't care.

Well the horn in question would be an early 70s Alexander, there are dents here and there but none I can imagine would take much effort to remove, on top of that I would be also getting the bell replaced so any work that would be needed to be done On the bell would be relieved, it also has air leaks that I would like to be fixed, after reading some responses then maybe all it really needs is a good look over especially since it was in a car accident, I can imagine some things have been shifted because of that.

[Michael Bush]

I would be also getting the bell replaced

This is one of those lines you just read (or I do) and take for granted, then a few minutes later:

Bloke talked about doing this on a lesser tuba recently. On an Alex, this seems like a big step. I'm not second guessing you at all, but it does seem like something that would be an interesting story.

[tofu]

Honestly you really need to take it to someone and explain exactly what you would like to do.

The price or getting a tuba rebuilt (more or less)

can really cover a vast territory. If you're thinking completely taken apart, valves redone and then silver plated you're talking a lot of time and money (perhaps in the $5-10 thousand range). OTOH, if your valves are good and you just go with a "play condition" restoration with say major and easily reached dents taken out, valve alignment, new felts etc. and chem clean, and maybe say a relacquer of the bell inside etc. the cost can be quite reasonable and in the $400 range. I've done this with a number of horns and have been really happy with the results. Tell us where your located and we can probably give you somebody within reasonable distance who can give you an estimate. Several of those folks who do great work are sponsors on this forum.

[toobagrowl]

Yeah, you might consider an "econo-overhaul", which would be a complete cleaning, valves aligned/checked, dents taken out without de-soldering your horn (dent eraser), any other "major" issue that needs taken care of, buffing, and finally re-lacquering or spot lacquering on your horn.

I would probably look into Borodi Music in Ohio for that. They seem to do a really nice job on overhauls; the lacquer job in particular looks beautiful and the pricing is reasonable.

[EMC]

I would be also getting the bell replaced

This is one of those lines you just read (or I do) and take for granted, then a few minutes later:

Bloke talked about doing this on a lesser tuba recently. On an Alex, this seems like a big step. I'm not second guessing you at all, but it does seem like something that would be an interesting story.

The reason I'm getting the bell replaced is because it's starting to crack and I've already been in contact with Alexander about getting a new one,

[EMC]

looking at my horn again, I think rather than a total rebuild, I think it really just needs to have the MANY dents removed and then new bell installed, the rotor springs do need redone or tightened or "something". But other than that it has several red rot spots that I'd like to have looked at just to make sure they aren't in need of patching.

[bort]

Why not?

[eupher61]

Yeah, you might consider an "econo-overhaul", which would be a complete cleaning, valves aligned/checked, dents taken out without de-soldering your horn (dent eraser), any other "major" issue that needs taken care of, buffing, and finally re-lacquering or spot lacquering on your horn.

I would probably look into Borodi Music in Ohio for that. They seem to do a really nice job on overhauls; the lacquer job in particular looks beautiful and the pricing is reasonable.

ummmm.......Yes, they do lots of "overhauls" and the finished product does look good.

[Daniel C. Oberloh]

When rebuilding or performing extensive repairs on an Alex or any of the old-school hand made tubas, french horns, euphoniums, etc., a more careful and detailed approach is a must if the job is to turn out right and proper. These are sensitive instruments and can not be addressed like any old middle school sousaphone, doing so can yield very bad and sometimes tragic results. If the shop has an issue with taking it apart, find another shop. Magnetic dent tools are an absolute no-no. The instrument was constructed in a traditional manor and because so, any and all metal work where it involves dent repair, soldering and polishing on such instruments should be done in an equally traditional manor. You should be very selective about the shop that you chose to perform the desired work you seek and communicate your desires and consers thoroughly to get a detailed understanding of what is to be done and the expected cost before committing yourself to the project. Understand also that older horns have a way of presenting the shop with surprises that can add additional cost and time to the completed work. See the link as an example http://www.oberloh.com/gallery/alxcctuba.htm

Good luck.

D.C. Oberloh

[bort]

The pricing isn't out of sight, and Alexander has obviously gone back and designed separate CC bugles, as the newer ones play QUITE well in tune...and still offer the unmistakeable-to-tuba-players Alexander sonic characteristics.

A new Alex 163 costs about the same as a new PT-6. Why so many PT-6's and so few Alex 163's?

[EMC]

When rebuilding or performing extensive repairs on an Alex or any of the old-school hand made tubas, french horns, euphoniums, etc., a more careful and detailed approach is a must if the job is to turn out right and proper. These are sensitive instruments and can not be addressed like any old middle school sousaphone, doing so can yield very bad and sometimes tragic results. If the shop has an issue with taking it apart, find another shop. Magnetic dent tools are an absolute no-no. The instrument was constructed in a traditional manor and because so, any and all metal work where it involves dent repair, soldering and polishing on such instruments should be done in an equally traditional manor. You should be very selective about the shop that you chose to perform the desired work you seek and communicate your desires and consers thoroughly to get a detailed understanding of what is to be done and the expected cost before committing yourself to the project. Understand also that older horns have a way of presenting the shop with surprises that can add additional cost and time to the completed work. See the link as an example http://www.oberloh.com/gallery/alxcctuba.htm

Good luck.

D.C. Oberloh

The delicacy and skill required to work on Alexanders is something I have taken into deep consideration, and I have been browsing around and gathering opinions, also if anyone can recommend a shop that would be well equipped for this I would appreciate the advice, I know Oberloh is an obvious choice but I've been told that you guys are "backed up for years" and I'm not sure if that means I won't get my horn back for "years". I'm not one to rush anyone especially for an instrument I paid a lot of money for but that seems an awful long time for me to not have my horn. I've heard of mile high brass, of course Dan Shultz, and I've considered sending it back to Wichita where I purchased it as well.

[EMC]

Hand-made (hammered) tubas tend to "print through" (hammer marks) when dents are pushed out from the inside (whether stick-and-ball technique or magnet technique).

A Ferree's dent machine straightens out metal from the inside and outside simultaneously, and hammer marks (which remain in the insides of hand-made tubas, but were sanded and buffed off the outsides during manufacturing) tend to not transfer from the inside to the outside as severely when this device is used by someone well-versed at using it.

Old hand-made tubas are often thin-walled and sometimes brittle, which requires extra care and examination.

Old Alexander CC tubas were basically factory cut-down BBb tubas (BBb horizontal main slide assembly replaced with a [CC] dogleg and a vertical tuning slide, and with all four rotors featuring 90% knuckles). We've all seen videos of artist-level players using 6th partial fingerings on those old Alexander CC tubas for 5th partial pitches, as well as 4th partial fingerings for 3rd partial pitches...etc. As so many of them are really worn, have suffered from repeated "back-of-music-store" and "irresponsible ownership" abuse, and the scale is particularly awkward, if looking for the Alexander sound and a CC tuba, probably the best place to look is a new Alexander CC tuba. The pricing isn't out of sight, and Alexander has obviously gone back and designed separate CC bugles, as the newer ones play QUITE well in tune...and still offer the unmistakeable-to-tuba-players Alexander sonic characteristics.

Well, I'm not really interested in buying a brand new one to be honest, if I was I'd probably sell the one I have, and as far as tuning goes this one seems to be one of the gems that hardly have any tuning issues at least the way I play, really I just need to use 1-3 for D in the staff and that's about it, now I'm not saying that tuning is perfect but it's certainly not bad