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Hi-
What is the specific problem?
Mark

Only 1 of mine is a problem.if I get it to eye level,I can get it to go on.its the casing for me,not the cap.frustrating for sure

Pretty much how I feel. Love the way it plays.blue juice has made the valves pretty happy

I had a similar problem develop fairly quickly with my Wessex EEb clone. Only on the second valve. Jonathan sent me some new valve caps, but that didn't help. And it wasn't/isn't severe enough to do anything dramatic about (like chasing the threads).

I've found the best solution for me is to put a bit of silicone grease (which I use for slide lube) on the threads of the cylinder or in the cap. This improves things greatly, and may even have made things better over time. My guess is that the grease fills some space in sub-standard threading and allows the cap threads to "follow" the cylinder threads better. Oil helped in the same way, but the heavier grease has worked better.

I think this is partly a consequence of the fineness of the threading and partly a consequence of the softness of the brass. I have no problem at all with my 91-year old Buescher tuba.

ghmerrill wrote:I had a similar problem develop fairly quickly with my Wessex EEb clone. Only on the second valve. Jonathan sent me some new valve caps, but that didn't help. And it wasn't/isn't severe enough to do anything dramatic about (like chasing the threads).

Funny, perhaps they cloned it a little too well. I have the same problem on the second valve of my Besson!

Yeesh... more reminders of why I like rotary valves!

Speaking of off center springs,is there a way to just solder or glue them to the bottom cap permanently?

did you prchase these from Mack Brass? Tom McGrady is excellent with customer service.

I have a Wisemann Eb trumpet. It's a fine horn. But the valve caps drive me crazy. I don't know if it is the same problem you have. My issue is that when I put the caps back on it is difficult to avoid cross-threading. Sometimes I have to go back and forth 4 or 5 times before it threads correctly. Once the threads are engaged they screw on fine.

I don't know how Wisemann goofed this simple thing up so badly, yet managed to otherwise make a terrific horn.

Hup

I have used a little Vaseline on the outer threads on my tubas and this makes a huge difference. Have you tried to swap out the caps from one valve to another to see if the issue follows? If so we can always order more caps. Try the Vaseline fist. Once i had a trombone where the main sile connects to the body had a big issue of felling too tigh and was difficult to get going, after the Vaseline, no more issues.

Have you tried teflon tape on the threads? Doesn't take much but does the trick...cheap and easy to reapply every so often

MikeMason wrote:Pretty much how I feel. Love the way it plays.blue juice has made the valves pretty happy

Same here. This issue seems an idiosyncrasy of the 900 which, for me, has improved over time. Very happy overall, love this horn!

MikeMason wrote:Speaking of off center springs,is there a way to just solder or glue them to the bottom cap permanently?

Here's my fav. bottom-caps

cktuba wrote:Mike, 2nd valve in particular is an issue. The rest are less easy to thread than normal, but not too terribly bad. Overall, considering how well the horn plays, none of it is really that bad.

Come to think of it, my issue was mostly with the second valve cap as well. Interesting, exact same experience.

Is there an increased chance that "crud" could get into the valves through the oil holes? Or no more than would get in through the bottom valve cap holes to begin with?

bort wrote:Is there an increased chance that "crud" could get into the valves through the oil holes? Or no more than would get in through the bottom valve cap holes to begin with?

there are larger holes in the top and bottom caps already.

Ah... well, then...

My only concern about the oil hole in the valve cap is one of efficiency. It seems as though most of the oil would just get absorbed by the felt on top of the valve. But maybe after a saturation point is reached, most of the oil would go where you want it to. So maybe it's not really a problem.

I confess that I don't oil nearly as much as some of you guys do, and the synthetics I use don't seem to require it. Even on the 91-year old Buescher (original valves, not replated) I don't oil every time I use it, and at most once a week seems okay for it if I'm playing it regularly.

But I do think the top oil hole would be an improvement to oiling through the bottom valve cap -- which I see a bunch of people doing, at least on front-valve baritones . It certainly would improve the constant problem of soaking your pant legs with valve oil while oiling with the horn in your lap.

Has this cap thread issue been corrected on new shipments of Wisemann's?
Mark

ghmerrill wrote:I had a similar problem develop fairly quickly with my Wessex EEb clone. Only on the second valve. Jonathan sent me some new valve caps, but that didn't help. And it wasn't/isn't severe enough to do anything dramatic about (like chasing the threads).:

Wessex have been working with the factory a lot this last year to get this thread issue eliminated and I think we now do. In the most recent shipment we checked at factory in April there was NOT a single valve cap threading problem with over 200 instruments checked. The caps can now be removed, valve oiled and replaced without any concern. It is one of a number of areas where quality is increasing rapidly now we quality check everything in China and the factory know we will not accept if not good