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Explain how you oiled it.

Oiled the valve bearings, the linkage, or the inside of the valve? If it now rotates more freely, but the linkage has not been oiled, that could explain it. It could also be the coincidental loss of a bumper, unrelated to the oiling.

GregTuba79 wrote:I oiled the valve by squirting valve oil down the tuning slides with the valve open and closed simultaneously. Mind you, the valve was silent before I did this and now it cranks pretty loud.

Next steps: oil the linkages and check to see that all bumpers are intact. Also do a visual inspection to be sure part of a linkage is not striking anything hard.

You need to apply oil at the top and bottom bearings of the rotor to get them quite. The oil you poured through the horn washed out the oil in the bearings.

Put a drop or two of oil between the thingy that holds the corks and the thingy that moves back and forth between the corks (the stop arm). The upper shaft of the rotor can be seen between these two things.

Then, without pushing the valve down, pull the slide for that valve and the vacuum created will suck the oil down into the bearing.

Take the bottom screw cap off and put a couple of drops of oil in the rotor shaft that has the alignment marks on it.

Repeat the slide pulling with out the valve being depressed and let the oil suck into the bearing.


This should resolve your issue.

Roger

Roger Lewis wrote:You need to apply oil at the top and bottom bearings of the rotor to get them quite. The oil you poured through the horn washed out the oil in the bearings.

Use a heavier oil on the bearings than you used previously down the slide. Yamaha Spindle Oil, 3-In-1 or regular 5W30 0r 10W30 will work fine.