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Hello all,
So I have found that the hardest part of putting a horn together is mounting the valve block to the body. I wanted to see how other people approach this issue. There's got to be a simple way to do it without having to use other people to hold it while you solder.

I also find that getting braces is not super easy. Again for those of you who do these kinds of projects where do you get your bracing from?

Thanks in advance

Putting a valve block on a tuba is sometimes a challenge... especially in the case of many of the rotary tubas where the main tuning slide is horizontal to the horn, the 2nd valve slide has to clear the bell, and the 3rd valve slide often has to get past between the 1st valve circuit and the open bugle upper bow.

On rotary horns, I 'mock up' the complete valve section using the main slide and leadpipe just attached by friction fit with various 'shims' like pieces of wood to set the valve set away from the bugle. Sometimes it's not practical to have the 4th wrap attached to the valve section because it lies on the backside of the bugle but one just has to visualize where it's going to be and plan accordingly.

Until you've done it a few dozen times and made all the potential mistakes... be prepared to take things apart and start over!

Piston valve sections usually aren't very difficult to set up but you still have to pay attention to where the leadpipe and main slide will mate to the rest of the horn.

Even though I've been through many dozen tubas and euphoniums... it's still helpful to take a few pictures before taking things apart. Mark where the longer braces come from. They are the ones that will cause the most trouble if you try to put them back in the wrong place.

Brace flanges can be purchased from Allied or Conn/Selmer. However... buying new brace sockets can get in your pocket pretty good. Each socket is likely to cost $5-7 each. Take that times two and add in a piece of round brass stock and it adds up quickly. That being said.... I seldom buy just braces because I've parted out LOTS of horns and have a pretty good stash of stuff.

(EDIT)
By all means... IF you take the main bugle bows apart for dentwork... make certain you mark the orientation of the bows in relation to each other and take a few pictures. If you reassemble the main bows and ferrules a few degrees off... your going to be screwed! Again... take a few pictures and mark your parts. You can use permanent marker on the INSIDE of the bows and ferrules and won't have to worry about getting the marks off after assembly.

This board is fortunate to have talented and experienced men such as Joe and Dan who give so generously of their time to advise and help do-it-your-selfers. They get my respect.

Ace

Ace wrote:This board is fortunate to have talented and experienced men such as Joe and Dan who give so generously of their time to advise and help do-it-your-selfers. They get my respect.

Ace

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