Spit problems with my MW2011FA

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tuba72
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Spit problems with my MW2011FA

Post by tuba72 »

While warming up this morning before our performance in Church this morning I ran into a problem. I know there was some spit somewhere as I can hear the popping but was unable to find out where it was stuck. Tried the bottom 3 spit valves with no luck. Took out the low slides with no luck either. Went to the upper slides and found a little in number 2 slide but that was it. Still popping. Took out the pistons and nothing there. Still have the issues. Luckily a friend of mine in the group still has his tuba there so I was able to use it. Any ideas from some of you out there that have that same problem? I love this horn just want to figure out what I need to do to drain the spit out. Thanks for any ideas.
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Re: Spit problems with my MW2011FA

Post by tubeast »

Hi,

"King Spin" will do the trick.
Usually, when the gurgling won´t stop after main slide has been drained, water is in the NEXT branch, (the first one after the valve section). Unlike other tubas, that branch of the 2011 is still quite narrow, so it´s likely to collect enough fluid to start gurgling.
The quickest way to drain is out the bell by spinning the horn twice, in the correct direction.

I have to do this every two pieces, so it keeps me exercised ;-)

Have fun with an otherwise close to perfect horn
Hans
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windshieldbug
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Re: Spit problems with my MW2011FA

Post by windshieldbug »

A tuba swab would be cool... all those woodwind players seem to have no trouble swabbing out their instruments out on stage!
And think of the lovely colors one could carry! :shock:
Instead of talking to your plants, if you yelled at them would they still grow, but only to be troubled and insecure?
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Re: Spit problems with my MW2011FA

Post by tubeast »

That bow is the one I was talking about.
Problem is: most spit valves don´t drain thoroughly.
I find myself using them as venting valves to faciliate pulling the 2011´s loooong slides all the way out to pour the fluid on the ground.
Hans
Melton 46 S
1903 or earlier GLIER Helicon, customized Hermuth MP
2009 WILLSON 6400 RZ5, customized GEWA 52 + Wessex "Chief"
MW HoJo 2011 FA, Wessex "Chief"
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PaulMaybery
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Re: Spit problems with my MW2011FA

Post by PaulMaybery »

Most front action pistons have the same issues. (Rotarys do not) that is the valve circuits exit the valves on the "down side" of the way the horn is tilted when played (that is the tilt of the horn is to the players left.) Water, by means of gravity then exits from the lower of the two valve ports which on most horns heads to the upper tuning crook. It does not make its way necessarily to the the lower crook where there is a water key.

A simple solution to help avoid having to do the huge "double spin" is a little trick I learned. I can be a bit dense (probably more that I should) so this took me quite a bit of trial and error before I grasp where the water was actually moving. I followed the principle of gravity.

Here it goes:

Procedure A
While the horn is still upright on your lap,
1. Tilt the tuba about 45 degrees to the right
2. Depress (and wiggle) all the valves down (this returns the water through the valves to the opposite side of the tuning crook.
3. Return the horn to playing position
4. Press the valves and wiggle them. (now the water will head to the MTS)
5. Open the MTS water key. You should get your results.

IF HOWEVER - you are one of those who upends the tuba and sits it on the bell, the water will indeed go to some inconvenient places and the "loop de loop" will be necessary.
GOOD NEWS - It is not necessary to completely rotate the tuba.

Simply.
1. Start with the tuba in a horizontal position on your lap. (Bell is on top - 1st branch on bottom. Pretty much normal resting position.
2. The tilt the horn 90 degrees so that the valves are now facing downward toward the floor.
3. Now tilt the bell a bit downward to the left and then bring it back up and keep going til its about 45 degrees to your right (all the while keeping the valves facing down.)

If done correct;y this should also put the water in the lower tuning crooks. which you may empty OR repeat the first procedure.

TIP to remember: Even if you empty when you put the horn down for a break, the warm air left inside the tuba will eventualy condense and you will have water in the slides when you return. If the horn is sitting on the bell, it is more complicated to remove and you will probably need to complete procedures A and B.
Best tip is to leave the tuba upright if possible, such as with the bell resting on the chair. This will also avoid having water exiting throught the mouthpipe and spilling on the bell.
At the point of your return, Procedure A should be sufficient.

EXCEPTIONS: There are times when water seems to migrate to wierd places. The moisture usually gets there when it is still vapor in the warm air and condenses when we are least expecting it.

For you own curiosity, simply follow the route that water would take under the influence of gravity.
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