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Hello Everyone,
I have a Nirschl 6/4 and, due to a moving accident, the stop arm snapped off. My main issue right now is I am trying to pop the valve out of the casing but I don't have access to the rear of the casing because of tubing in the way to pop it. Is there a trick to getting the top plate off so I can access the valve? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Unless you are a skilled tech that knows how to perform the repair, you are best to leave it alone and let the shop address the matter.

Good luck.

Daniel C. Oberloh
Oberloh Woodwind and Brass Works
Seattle, Wa

Yes, that is not possible. But thank you for your post.

I would maybe give someone who knows what their doing a call and have them walk you through it, assuming that you can't take it to a shop.

Remove the thingy atop the spindle, remove the 'locking collar' that holds the valve in, and use a rawhide mallet on top of the spindle. This will rebound the top bearing plate and rotor out enough for you to pull it out. I've done this a kajillion times.

ValveSlide wrote:The question might be, what you going to do once the valve is out...?

Miraphone made me a new 1st valve for my 40 year-old 184 when I tripped over a flute player and snapped the spindle off...

The folks at Meinlschmidt are very accommodating - I'm certain they would supply you with a new rotor, if that's what you would need (I'm not sure if you would need to send them the old one or not...) They might be able to repair it, but I'd assume they'd want the valve casing in order to lap it in properly. In any event, this route will take probably a month to two months (or more), depending on what you need.

How badly broken off is the stem? I'm thinking (?) that maybe a top-notch tech might be able to silver solder the old stem back on, or fabricate a replacement.

Is there any thread left in the stem? If so, it would be a simple job for a tech to pull it out with a tool that works like a slide hammer (that's how the top loaders are normally removed, anyway).





Can the valve still turn inside the casing? My thinking is that the force that it would take to snap off that stem may mean there is more damage done than just a broken stem - I think Dan O's advice is best....

roweenie wrote:it would be a simple job for a tech to pull it out with a tool that works like a slide hammer (that's how the top loaders are normally removed, anyway).

Really? A friend who was trained at Redwing taught me the "rebound off the spindle" trick; told me that's where he learned it. It works.

UncleBeer wrote:

roweenie wrote:it would be a simple job for a tech to pull it out with a tool that works like a slide hammer (that's how the top loaders are normally removed, anyway).

Really? A friend who was trained at Redwing taught me the "rebound off the spindle" trick; told me that's where he learned it. It works.

Well, um, I got the tool from Meinlschmidt (a.k.a. the folks who manufactured the valve), so I assume they know what they're doing.....

There's your answer folks: buy or make this tool instead of using what's already (probably) around your house.

UncleBeer wrote:There's your answer folks: buy or make this tool instead of using what's already (probably) around your house.

Wow, tough crowd. I didn't even say your method doesn't work.....

Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the replies. I have been emailing with Meinlschmidt about this and I was under the impression I could get another valve and stop arm from them, then replace it. But if they need the valve casing as well, I am out of luck. I guess I will wait till I can get it to someone I can trust to deal with it. I don't have the stop arm, this happened during a move after I got married and was not able to locate them when I discovered what had happened.

Thanks again for the help.