Mouthpiece mods

TubaTodd · Post by **TubaTodd** » Thu Apr 22, 2004 10:09 am

I modified a few mouthpiece throats when I was in college. I openned the throat on a Schilke 67, an R&S Heavy Helleberg, a Dillon Sheridan, and a couple others that I don't remember. (I know, I know....I had a mouthpiece addiction.) For all but 1 of my modifications I used a "reamer" like Mr. Pearson suggested. It was REALLY easy to use. At Ithaca College we had a very nice repairshop. Mr. Blakely, who ran the shop, would lend me his reamer and let me do my own mods.

With a reamer all you have to do is...
1. Hold the mouthpiece with the cup facing upward
2. Put the reamer in the cup
3. Let the reamer center itself
4. With low to moderate pressure, turn the reamer slowly.

Mr. Blakely's big piece of advice was ALWAYS "Do a little...check a LOT!!" You can always shave off more throat, but you can't glue the shavings back on.

In speaking with another brass repairman, I learned that a reamer doesn't really do an accurate job. Since the reamer is gently tapered, the throat will be V-shaped and not straight. Be that as it may, I was never disappointed with the results from a mod using a reamer.

Can someone else shed some light on using a reamer vs. using a drill.

TubaTodd · Post by **TubaTodd** » Thu Apr 22, 2004 1:58 pm

The reamer that I used was big enough for a trombone or tuba mouthpiece. I believe I saw one of these in the tool section at Home Depot. It is a hand held tool that looks very similar to a mouthpiece truing tool (except with sharp edges).

I'm actually on my way toward Home Depot in 20 minutes. When I return home I will post if I found it, how much it is, and what it is called.

I hope this helps.

TubaTodd · Post by **TubaTodd** » Thu Apr 22, 2004 5:12 pm

I'm back!!! My trip took a little longer than expected. In any event, I found the reamer at Home Depot. Here are the specs....

Brand: General
Tool Name: T-Handle Reamer (I think......it was a long trip)
Price: $13.75
Description: For use with wood, metal, plastic (ie. KELLYberg

)and other materials. Typically used for enlarging a preexisting whole (like a mouthpiece throat). It said that it leaves smooth/clean edges.

This tool looked like it could widen anything from a trumpet or horn mouthpiece to a big tuba mouthpiece. This reamer looked like the reamer I used in college...only newer.

I hope this answers some questions.

Norm Pearson · Post by **Norm Pearson** » Thu Apr 22, 2004 6:19 pm

Norm Pearson · Post by **Norm Pearson** » Thu Apr 22, 2004 6:30 pm

TubaTodd · Post by **TubaTodd** » Thu Apr 22, 2004 7:21 pm

re: Norm Pearson

I had no idea there were straight reamers. I guess I should have known better.

Considering that the straight reamer is the same thickness throughout, how do you use a straight reamer? How can you center it? I would imagine a straight reamer would be harder to use. Perhaps you could shed some light on this. Inquiring minds what to know. hee hee

Chuck(G) · Post by **Chuck(G)** » Thu Apr 22, 2004 8:03 pm

Those hardware-store reamers have too much of a taper to them to do any quality work.

On the mouthpieces that I've altered, I've used a Morse #1 straight-flute finishing reamer, which has a much gentler taper and slower cutting action than the hardware store reamer. I never bothered to finish up with a straight reamer because the taper was so gradual (0.050"/inch).

A reamer for taper pins would have an even more gradual taper.

No matter what type of reameryou use, make sure to get a finishing reamer with straight flutes. A spiral-fluted reamer is made to cut fast and will be hard to control and give rougher results.

Rather than use a drill press, I simply chucked the reamer in a tap wrench. I marked the diameter where I wanted to stop with a piece of masking tape wrapped around the reamer. A sharp reamer will make quick work of things.

TubeNet

Mouthpiece mods

My mods...

re: Norm Pearson