Mead springs (lite)

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opus37
5 valves
5 valves
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Re: Mead springs (lite)

Post by opus37 »

A lot has been written about break in on a new euphonium on Dave Werden's board. The short of it is you need to wipe off your valves and oil them every time you play for about 2 months. I had to do this with my Wessex BR140 Baritone. I found that blue juice oil to work best for this process.

As for springs, I found the springs that came with the horn to be way too light for me (being a tuba player). I replaced them with the Mead Baritone springs and am very happy with the response now. The Mead euphonium springs (regular) are different for each valve. The theory being you use the valves differently and different fingers are stronger than others. That's why the 4th valve spring you got was weaker, the pinky finger is weaker. These are expensive springs compared to other brands.
Brian
1892 Courtiere (J.W. Pepper Import) Helicon Eb
1980's Yamaha 321 euphonium
2007 Miraphone 383 Starlight
2010 Kanstul 66T
2016 Bubbie Mark 5
arpthark
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Joined: Thu Feb 28, 2008 4:14 pm

Re: Mead springs (lite)

Post by arpthark »

On a comp euph, isn't the fourth valve the lightest valve?
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Rick F
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Re: Mead springs (lite)

Post by Rick F »

Hi Mark,

I've not tried the Mead springs "lite" variety, but the regular model Mead springs also came with a rolled up piece of paper inside. The strongest spring then was marked for the first valve. The idea being that your index finger is stronger & you use the first valve the most. Of course on a compensating euph the fourth valve is usually played with the other index finger.

Here's a link to a post about the Mead springs on Dave Werden's forum - original version. 4 page thread in total:
http://www.dwerden.com/forum/showthread ... post115538
Miraphone 5050 - Warburton mpc (Brandon Jones)
YEP-641S (on long-term loan to grandson)
DE mpc (102 rim; I-cup; I-9 shank)
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