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I just use Hagerty's or Wright's cream on my King 1258. Usually cleans up fine in the final wiping.

You could just wash it with soap and water to remove residue but I wonder if that might remove whatever the magical "tarnish preventative" that they all claim.

Tarnishield also.
Stuff made for plated tableware is water soluble and very easy to clean up/remove residue from corners.
Also least abrasive.

What about aluminum foil (crinkled) laid in the bottom of bathtub with baking soda added? I've read about this way to clean silver with deep grooves or crevices, maybe work with frosted finish. But, maybe the water has to be too hot.

Cleaning silver with baking soda and aluminum foil (and hot water)

From my jewelry making experience...Jeffrey Herman is the world's premier silver restorer. I go with his advice. He advises the least abrasive silver polishes. He now makes on of them, Herman's Simply Clean Collector's Silver Polish. The other is Blitz Silver Shine Polish. His site gives a rating of the abrasiveness of other silver polishes. On a satin silver finish, it would be good to have the least abrasive polish, because as you polish, you are removing some of the roughness of the silver finish. Polish as little as possible and use a wax if one isn't included in your polish. While most satin silver finish should have enough depth to allow for numerous polishing efforts, it might be best to allow a little tarnish rather than polish off the beautiful satin finish.

Rick F wrote:What about aluminum foil (crinkled) laid in the bottom of bathtub with baking soda added? I've read about this way to clean silver with deep grooves or crevices, maybe work with frosted finish. But, maybe the water has to be too hot.

I've used this method with trumpets and it works well. I don't know why the water would need to be hot (maybe that speeds up the reaction but I don't think it's necessary). One thing to consider is that the instrument has to be clean for the reaction to occur. If you have crevices where grease or oil has accumulated the surface may not be accessible. So whether your method is polishing or electrolysis you still need to work those grooves or crevices.

Hup

Rick F wrote:What about aluminum foil (crinkled) laid in the bottom of bathtub with baking soda added? I've read about this way to clean silver with deep grooves or crevices, maybe work with frosted finish. But, maybe the water has to be too hot.

Cleaning silver with baking soda and aluminum foil (and hot water)

I did that with a mouthpiece with excellent results!!

bloke wrote:Also, it takes a lot of water to completely immerse a tuba (16" - 20" bell).

How would one deal with the waterline along the bell? Surely, there would be an issue there (tarnish vs. no tarnish, and a line that would have to be made to disappear).

Could you flip the tuba over and do it again? Or do one round with the tuba standing on its bell in the tub?

Tubajug wrote:

bloke wrote:Also, it takes a lot of water to completely immerse a tuba (16" - 20" bell).

How would one deal with the waterline along the bell? Surely, there would be an issue there (tarnish vs. no tarnish, and a line that would have to be made to disappear).

Could you flip the tuba over and do it again? Or do one round with the tuba standing on its bell in the tub?

I would think so. According to this video linked below, the guy turns the tarnished vase over after a minute or so. The object needs to come in contact with the aluminum foil to work best.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsKLcc13WBo