Here's what I do:
-warm up the horn
-set your main tuning slide so (most of) the open notes are in tune
-set 2nd slide so the 2nd valve is 0 to -5 cents
-set 1st slide so the 1st valve is 0 to -5 cents
-the 1+2 combination should be right at 0 cents
-set the 3rd slide so the 2+3 combination is 0 cents
-set the 4th slide so the 2+4 combination is 0 cents
Now, never use 1+3, use 4 instead. Never use 1+2+3, use 2+4 instead.
It works great unless you sit next to a euph with only 3 valves, then you may want to push the 4th slide in so you'll match.
alternative fingerings for 2+3
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- bugler
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I play euphonium, and for the F# above middle C I use just valve 1 instead of 2-3. There aren't any alternates for anything lower than that (ie C# and F# below middle C). I also use valve 2 for G above middle C instead of 1-2. This gets a tad confusing because high F# and G# have the same fingering (valve 1) along with high G and A (valve 2). Might lead to some mispitching problems.
I find that these other fingerings blow much more open on my horn than the 1-2 (or 3) and 2-3. This is probably because the air goes through less tubing (and takes fewer twists and turns). Intonation is always an issue, but on my particular Yamaha 321S the alternate fingerings play better in tune than the standard 1-2 and 2-3.
I guess you could play 1-2 or 3 and then pull as many slides out as you can...
If your looking for an alternate to help you past a tricky section try using your other hand. For example my low F plays best as 1-3 and my octave below middle C plays best as 4. So, I use my left hand to use the 4th valve when moving quickly between F and C many times (although this would be solved with a 3+1 horn). This is particularly useful in mvmt 4 of Holst's 2nd Suite in F.
You could also try to find an alternate fingering for the OTHER note then you are moving to/from. In general - the higher in pitch you are the more alternates there are, but when you get lower there ain't many alternates. Don't forget the classic 1-2 to 3 alternate. Usually you can play (almost) any note with the same fingering as the same note an octave lower, that will open up many more alternates.
keep looking...
I find that these other fingerings blow much more open on my horn than the 1-2 (or 3) and 2-3. This is probably because the air goes through less tubing (and takes fewer twists and turns). Intonation is always an issue, but on my particular Yamaha 321S the alternate fingerings play better in tune than the standard 1-2 and 2-3.
I guess you could play 1-2 or 3 and then pull as many slides out as you can...

If your looking for an alternate to help you past a tricky section try using your other hand. For example my low F plays best as 1-3 and my octave below middle C plays best as 4. So, I use my left hand to use the 4th valve when moving quickly between F and C many times (although this would be solved with a 3+1 horn). This is particularly useful in mvmt 4 of Holst's 2nd Suite in F.
You could also try to find an alternate fingering for the OTHER note then you are moving to/from. In general - the higher in pitch you are the more alternates there are, but when you get lower there ain't many alternates. Don't forget the classic 1-2 to 3 alternate. Usually you can play (almost) any note with the same fingering as the same note an octave lower, that will open up many more alternates.
keep looking...
- MartyNeilan
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On a five valve tuba like your Conn, try 1-5 as a 2-3 alternate; it should bring the pitch down a little. 1-5 is sometimes used for the Eb right below the staff - some horns tend to be sharp on that note and it beats pulling out the 3rd slide on just that note. Likewise, many horns play better using 3 instead of 1-2 for the corresponding E natural.tuba4sissies wrote:For tuba, my teacher has never told me an alternate. Cause there isnt one when needed.
For high Ab (23 on a CC tuba) you could also try 1 with the slide pushed all the way in, but there is a chance it may still be flat.
Sure there are!tuba4sissies wrote:Cause there isnt one when needed.
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First off I was making the comment that 2-3 has no alternate (besides the high Gb 1st valve) in response to the 4 valve euphonium question...MartyMeilan said:
On a five valve tuba like your Conn, try 1-5 as a 2-3 alternate; it should bring the pitch down a little. 1-5 is sometimes used for the Eb right below the staff - some horns tend to be sharp on that note and it beats pulling out the 3rd slide on just that note. Likewise, many horns play better using 3 instead of 1-2 for the corresponding E natural.
I am in agreement, the 5th valve acts as a flat 1 (or sharp 1-2). So, 5-1 would act as as flat 2-3 (or sharp 1-3 or 4). The biggest advantage, in my opinion, of the 5th valve is to tune that pesky low F (on CC) or low Eb (on BBb) with the 4-5 combo, which on a 4 valve horn would have to be 1-2-4 lipped up or 1-4 with a foot of tubing to be pulled. Yes, it does work wonders for those sharp 2-3 pitches (which aren't sharp much at all on by 4 valve Conn 3J CC). It is also nice for low F# (on CC) or low E (on BBb) as 2-3-5. Oh yeah, don't forget geting the low D (on CC) and low C (on BBb) in tune AND being able to hit Db (on CC) and low B (on BBb). I hope I said all that right...
The high Ab on CC tuba is relatively the same to my Gb/F# reference on euphonium.MartyMeilan said:
For high Ab (23 on a CC tuba) you could also try 1 with the slide pushed all the way in, but there is a chance it may still be flat.
Corey
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- MartyNeilan
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I was just politely responding to the tuba player with a recently purchased Conn who believed there were no possible alternates for a 2-3 combination on his 5 valve horn just because his teacher told him so. There are even more obscure options (including a fistful of valves) than the ones I mentioned. Don't believe everything your teachers tell you - I know that cause I is one. I just had to look up all the alternate fingerings for violin tonight, and it was scary.
Adjunct Instructor, Trevecca Nazarene University