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Rotors

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 1:57 pm
by bigboymusic
First, let me apologize... I know the oiling thing gets mentioned here regularly, so some of you may wish to skip this post..

I have a problem to admit.. I have played now for 39 years, I have played both piston and rotors for all this time. I have taught tuba from beginners to my years as an adjunct tuba dude.. In all this time, I will admit to you Tubeneters, I have no real idea on the proper way to care for rotors... I owned an Alex for 15 years.. every few months I would squeeze some valve oil down the slides and wiggle the rotors for a minute or so.. I never encountered any issues.. but I know that is not correct care of a good friend..

My school has just purchased a Chinese Bflat with 4 rotors (JB Hirsbrunner clone) I love the sound my kids get on it and I played it for a couple summer gigs, and overall the only problem I had was what you always hear, first valve is sticky.. I am sending the horn in to have the valves worked up like I was advised before we bought it, but once it's back I have to be able to tell these young tubists how to take care of their rotary instruments...

What is the group consensus on where, how, what... dangerous questions for dangerous minds....

Re: Rotors

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 2:27 pm
by bigboymusic
The tuba was new on June 1. It played fine, but there was a 'gradual' slow bind if that makes sense... it started out fine. during an evening concert that got to about 98 degrees, it began to stick during the concert.. since then it has been a little draggy

Re: Rotors

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 6:34 pm
by Tubanomicon
You purchased the tuba new on June 1, correct? When was the evening concert? If it was just recently, it could be the fact that the tuba needs to be properly lubricated and cleaned. If it wasn't, it could have something to do with the make of the tuba itself. What brand is it? I had a Chinese clone of a Miraphone 191 a year ago. The fifth valve became immovable, so I had to take it to a repairman. Unfortunately, that's sometimes the trade-off associated with purchasing a clone.

Re: Rotors

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 7:42 pm
by Tubanomicon
Mark, what did you do to get them working again? I'm guessing they weren't completely frozen?

Re: Rotors

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 10:35 pm
by Art Hovey
Is it possible that first valves tend to get stuck soonest because traces of saliva arrive there first and then dry out soonest because fresh air arrives there soonest during storage? I think it helps to run some clean water back & forth through the rotors to rinse them out after playing a rotary tuba.

Re: Rotors

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 5:37 am
by Tubanomicon
Wow, that sounds like a great way to start a masterclass, Mark. :)

Re: Rotors

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:00 pm
by Dan Tuba
Depending on how often you perform or practice, the "recipe" is as follows:
1-2 times per week oil both spindles on each rotor w/the appropriate oil(I use 3&1 Oil, and it seems to work fine...at least for the past few years)
1-2 times per week remove the main tuning slide and poor a "generous" amount of "valve" oil through the tuba(hold the 4th valve down,then release while holding the 3rd valve down...), paying careful attention not to "flush" tuning slide grease into the rotors.
1-2 times per week oil the ball joints w/the appropriate oil(3&1 works for me, plenty of others to choose)
1-2 times per week oil the spring/ bearing at the base of the paddles. Make sure to pull the spring back slightly on each paddle to ensure oil is applied to all moving parts.

***After each performance or practice session, be sure to empty all slides.

This process has worked for me. Yes, it takes time, but it usually keeps the tuba working well. From my experience, synthetic oils don't work as well on Chinese rotors as conventional oils. Especially if the tuba is not played on a regular basis. However, synthetic oils may work fine for you. I hope this helps.

Re: Rotors

Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:22 am
by andrew the tuba player
I also have a question about rotor maintenance.
What is the best way to wash the horn? Some people choose to remove the valves each time but I've heard that this can be bad for the horn.
Also are there any special steps concerning the mechanism itself?