TubeNet

Hetmans for all rotors (Miraphone Eb and Rudi BBb) and La tromba medium for pistons.(Besson Eb and Conn 36K)

Works perfectly!

Roche-Thomas.

Ever since I started playing brass in the early '70's. I have tried others. I have used up the "leftover" bottles of various brands that were in the case of used horns of all kinds I have purchased over the years. I have taken advise from others on what is "best." I always go back to Roche-Thomas. I have said "Thank you" and tried others offered to me when I would run out in the middle of a rehearsal or concert. Nothing comes close to reliability, ease of application, does not dilute, does not react with slide grease, does not get sticky, gummy, gunky or foamy (as does Hetmans), lasts a long time between needing to re-oil (unlike Al Cass and Blue Juice), and comes in a large 16-oz bottle that is economical (@$11) and will last years as you refill your one- or two-ounce individual bottles that you keep in each instrument case.

Worn valves or antique horns? As you dispense the Roche-Thomas into your horn case individual bottle, it mixes well with a couple of drops of pharmaceutical grade mineral oil to thicken the viscosity to seal the valves. You can get a bottle of mineral oil for @$2 at WalMart, which you can then make your custom mix for your particular valves, and it is a helluva lot cheaper than Hetman's "Classic."

Being a conventional oil, when it comes time to clean the valves, casings and slides, it cleans off much easier as well, so you can reapply fresh oil.

Did I say Roche-Thomas?

Unscented lamp oil thickened with a little motor oil. Any weight motor oil is fine, I just collect the drips that are left after adding oil to a motor vehicle. I use this on several tubas, one with rebuilt pistons that are reasonably tight and others that aren't so tight; the weight is infinitely adjustable.

I use highly processed and screened oil from a male virgin narwhal with a horn shorter then 6 feet.

Ultrapure lamp oil with a few drops of mineral oil.

https://www.google.com/search?q=al+cass ... gws_rd=ssl" target="_blank

$6 for a bottle of valve oil is ridiculous.

Voisi1ev wrote:I use highly processed and screened oil from a male virgin narwhal with a horn shorter then 6 feet.

Lacquer or silver plated?

In all seriousness, I actually appreciate threads like these.
I think I might venture down the lamp oil path. I've always been a "use whatever's around" type.

I don't measure anything, but it's probably less than 1:10 motor oil, enough to color it just slightly. Bloke may have made more of a science of it. There's probably nothing wrong with synthetic, but I have used only "natural" so can't say from experience.

I add enough Marvel Mystery Oil (mostly mineral oil, but looks and smells more interesting) to turn the lamp oil dark pink/light red.

Mostly La Tromba T2 valve oil "special."

I bought a case of this stuff (12 bottles, I think?) somewhere around 2004 from Jimmy Cara (former trumpet player with Dorsey band and others). I like it and have enough valve oil to probably last the rest of my life. I haven't purchased a bottle of valve oil since then, that's for sure. Looking around, I see it's not cheap, but I don't remember paying tons of money for it - guess I did?

Honestly though, I've used whatever has been most convenient many, many times without any issues. I've got partial bottles of all kinds of stuff I've accumulated over the years. Sometimes I actually try to use up a mostly empty bottle, but 99% of the time I just use whatever bottle I happen to have in the gigbag or easily accessible. Good valves seem to work good with just about any oil provided they are reasonably clean and have no actual mechanical issue or damage. I oil my valves each time I play the instrument.

After trying several I really like monster oil, it really works well for my horns

I used to use a 7:1 mixture of pure lamp oil and 4in1. Worked fine and was inexpensive, but I had to re-oil every other day. I finally switched to Yamaha oil which lasts longer and doesn't smell as much.

nworbekim wrote:I just didn't like the odor

You weren't using the same stuff I'm using - Lamplight© Ultra-Pure© Paraffin Lamp Oil. There is no odor. It's like a thinner version of drugstore mineral oil.

Blue Juice on all types of valves, because it penetrates so well.

With valves, where Blue Juice is too thin, I use a mix of Blue Juice and a little sewing machine oil. They don’t blend perfectly, rather make an emulsion. Which I consider a benefit, as the tiny drops of the thicker oil act as kind of ball bearings.

Klaus

I use blue juice on my baritone and monster oil on my tubas. I had used hetman's for a long time, but monster oil seems to last longer.

In my case, "too thin" is an oil like AlCass Fast, which drains off of my pistons in an hour or so, requiring a new coat of oil at half time. After a previous incarnation of this discussion, I started using smokeless lamp oil (on the grounds that it is intended for use in situations where it will be inhaled, and may therefore be reasonably safe). To stop it draining off of the pistons, I add a little medicinal-grade mineral oil (also chosen on the grounds of probable safety). I aim at a ratio of 1 part mineral oil in 9 parts lamp oil, because someone suggested that ratio here on Tubenet, and it seemed to work when I tried it.

I've been using it without problems for a year or more on my 4-valve Imperial Eb.

Ultra-Pure Valve Oil....

Because I keep my valves clean and oil often, I can use any valve oil, on any of my horns, from trumpets to tubas.

People who use a valve oil that purportedly allows less frequent oiling lose the advantage of reason No. 2 (of 4) to oil valves, as recommended by NAPBIRT; 2. it flushes debris toward the bottom cap.

The great number of choices recommended by posters on this thread indicate that, at least in theory, any valve oil can work, and that even wacky formulations do not always prevent valve oil from working in some situations.

Hup

Lamp oil with adulterants: sewing machine oil, mineral oil, STP.
Regardless of adulterant, you get white film buildup within a month especially on the holes in pistons. So frequent cleaning is required...not the worst thing in the world.

Not gonna pretend it is quality, but with low price, quantity has a quality all of its own.

TheGoyWonder wrote:Lamp oil with adulterants: sewing machine oil, mineral oil, STP.
Regardless of adulterant, you get white film buildup within a month especially on the holes in pistons.

Been using it for years on nine different horns - everything from brand new to ancient and never ever experienced this. Of all the valve oils I've used over the years ultra-pure lamp oil has been the cleanest with no residual build ups. Love the stuff as it allows customizing the oil to the horn - my preferred additive is various weights of Mobil 1. I've never experienced sticking or valves hanging up on either piston or rotary valved horns using the ultra-pure lamp oil.

I use a Mack 410 and I use blue juice, because that's what Tom told me to do.

I fill most of my old needle-tip hetman bottles with it so it's easier to use.