bloke dirty-birdie tuba cleaning report

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ResilienceOils
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Re: bloke dirty-birdie tuba cleaning report

Post by ResilienceOils »

bloke wrote:I've blasted high-velocity hot water through my large C piston tuba several times over the past few years, but the pistons were just beginning to become "gummy" (like many of my amateur and professional customers' valves - when they bring their instruments in for NON-valve-related issues).

It was time to see what's up.

:arrow: DUE TO THE FACT THAT I KEEP MY INSTRUMENT FLOODED WITH (cheap) OIL, there were no lime deposits. In fact, most of the instrument's interior (about the oldest of all model 5450 tubas shipped to the USA) is still somewhat shiny (though, yes, a very dark-gold color). What HAD built up just a little bit were some globs of thickened oil (which had collected some green oxidation along with a bit of dirt) that was parked in the KNUCKLES which feed INTO the valve casings...so "cleaning the casings themselves" would have accomplished NOTHING (nothing that would have lasted more than five or ten minutes, with "re-oiling" - just as with many of your tubas - exacerbating the sticking problem, as some more of of that thick green oil crap would have - via the fresh oiling - flowed on to the piston surfaces.

...so what "tool" did I use to remove that thickened-green-oxidation oil + dirty crap out of the casing knuckles?
:arrow: my fingers :shock:
There is no better (nor more adaptable) tool that the human hand...and fingertips can sense whether-or-not all of the crap has been removed (both via the nervous system in the fingers, and via the optic nerve examining the fingers).

Finally, I ran a brush (not a "snake", as most "snakes' diameters are not adequate) - with another brush's wire handle braided on to it's own wire handle to add about another foot of length - down the mouthpipe to the #1 casing. That brush picked up virtually nothing, as I have been pouring so much (again: cheap) oil down through it.

Once oiled and reassembled, a couple of the pistons were slightly sticking via (what I refer to as) "residual micro-dirt". This is tiny bits of crud that remain behind after knocking all of the crud loose, and probably some lint from the cloth used to clean the casings. One final pass and re-oiling, and the valves all work perfectly - you know: just like real musical instruments' valves.

...so (for me, due to really heavy and frequent oiling with [cheap] oil)
- no chem cleaning
- no ultrasonic cleaning
just:
- fingers, old T-shirt, oil, and a brush
Is this for reals?
These cheap oils are just taking the scale build up and turning it into sludge (as it can be used as a cutter)...Where else would you be getting the green build up? Also, stating that you have no scale in your horn when you can't get into every "nook and cranny" without a bore scope would be hard to state as factual.

The micro dirt you are referring to is the dried additives of the "cheap oil" you use...as it has detergents and quality solvents mixed into it which don't have the purity needed for white flash.

I don't understand why you wouldn't use cleaning solvents that break down oils, Wads for getting the valve casings cleaner and standard techniques that are used throughout the rest of the repair industry?
It sounds like you are trying to justify not doing ultrasonic cleanings because?

Lastly, YOUR pH levels and saliva make up is unique. Many players all over the world have huge issues with build up because of these issues...
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