2-3 F tuba tuning issues

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ckalaher1
3 valves
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Re: 2-3 F tuba tuning issues

Post by ckalaher1 »

I play a 5+1 GB Elektra that is the most in-tune F tuba that I've ever handled personally. The 23 series is pretty friendly, relatively speaking. However, I'm interested in trying the 126 combo just to have as a possibility, maybe for sustained playing or something like that. I'll give it a whirl, for sure.

I'll admit to largely still having the training wheels on with regards to the 6th valve.
michael_glenn
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Location: Hamilton, OH

Re: 2-3 F tuba tuning issues

Post by michael_glenn »

I previously owned a Firebird before my PT-10. I found the 2-3 combos to be totally fine. No complaints whatsoever. 1-2-6 was horridly flat in my experience. The majority of my complaints regarding intonation were sharp 1-2 A’s, and flat 1 G’s. Just required some push and pull.
Michael Ebie
PhD Music Theory (in progress) — University of Cincinnati CCM
MM Music Theory — Michigan State University
MM Tuba Performance — Michigan State University
BM Brass Performance — University of Akron
bgozdowski
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Re: 2-3 F tuba tuning issues

Post by bgozdowski »

I have an old B&S Symphonie, and always had similar issues with 2-3 being incredibly flat, especially in and above the staff. It was so bad, that I would finger Db's 1-5 to play in tune. I had the 3rd slide cut down and haven't had any issues out of it sense.

In fact, I've considered doing the same with my PT-6, because of the same issue. 2-3 being way too low.
bgozdowski
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Re: 2-3 F tuba tuning issues

Post by bgozdowski »

bloke wrote:
bgozdowski wrote:I have an old B&S Symphonie, and always had similar issues with 2-3 being incredibly flat, especially in and above the staff. It was so bad, that I would finger Db's 1-5 to play in tune. I had the 3rd slide cut down and haven't had any issues out of it sense.

In fact, I've considered doing the same with my PT-6, because of the same issue. 2-3 being way too low.

Try using the NINTH PARTIAL fingerings for upper C# and D...2-4, and 1-3 (or 4).

sidebar: As composers seem to be extending the low range of the tuba (due to 5 and 6 string bass guitars, 5-string double basses, and their own midi keyboards - on which they compose - easily "playing" acoustical instrument sounds to-and-beyond the bottom of the piano keyboard range), it seems as if it's nearly becoming necessary for C tubas to be equipped with six valves...
- Low F# and low F do not require the same length of 5th valve loop, and 6-4 would offer perfect tuning for F# whereas 5-4 would remain perfect for F.
- Low E is "pretty darn good" with 2-3-4, but would be nearly perfect with 6-5-4
- Low D is epically sharp with 5-2-3-4 (which is the best choice), but would be perfect with 6-5-3-4
- With many C tubas, the open fundamental is quite sharp, but 6-5-1-2-3-4 (triggering something out, and playing it on the second partial) would not only be flatter, but would offer more pitch stability, and would match the resonance of the pitches immediately above it, instead of offering a "hollow" sound which requires "doctoring".

Further...
Patrons have become so VERY accustomed to auto-tune in commercial recordings (including all day on television commercials), that even very slightly pitch flaws (yes, even that low) are noticeable to them. They may not know what it is that's "not right", but they know that it is "something".
Go listen to some 1960's rock bands on youtube (even the Beatles)...or heck, listen to a few selected (certainly not all) 1950's - 1970's "major" symphony orchestra recordings... Curious tuning is...well...noticeable...but really was NOT that noticeable during that era.
I should have been more clear. The Ab's in every octave on my C tuba are incredibly flat. Cutting the 3rd valve is what I'm considering right now, like I did on the Symphonie.

When I purchased my PT-6, it had the 5th valve slide extension on. It had been there since the original owner bought it and had never been removed. It was several months before I was able to get it to a shop to have it removed, so that I could use the modern tuning. Once it was out, I put it right back in, because I thought the low range responded better with the longer slide. Tuning was easier too. My pedal E 2-3-4 is very flat (likely due to a 3rd valve slide that may be too long), but 4-5 is right on the money, and it pops really well.
EMC
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Re: 2-3 F tuba tuning issues

Post by EMC »

This might be a little off base from what youre asking but as far as the 2-3 combination goes on my Alex with the long fifth valve extension, that fifth valve alone replaces every 2-3 combination alone with better clarity accuracy as well as being easier to find and adjust pitch. :tuba: i cant exactly explain why however.
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