Opinions on the MW-2155?

[willthetubaguy]

I’m considering buying a MW-2155. Opinions? I’d be playing it as an all around tuba, for solo, concert band, and youth orchestra.

[willthetubaguy]

The one I’m looking at appears to be in like new condition for $7500, is that overpaying?

[rudysan]

No, I think it is a very good price. But consider trying it first.

[bort]

Sounds like the right price. Not a steal, not a ripoff, for sure.

BTW, it is a great all around tuba. When it first came out, it was marketed as Warren Deck's ideal quintet tuba.

[willthetubaguy]

Sounds like the right price. Not a steal, not a ripoff, for sure.

BTW, it is a great all around tuba. When it first came out, it was marketed as Warren Deck's ideal quintet tuba.

Are MAW valves necessary?

[bort]

No.

Valves are necessary, but MAW valves are not. Nice to have, perhaps.

[Dan Bradley]

The 2155 was the first CC tuba that I ever owned, and I used it for about 5 years. I bought it new from David Fedderly in 1997. There were some amazing things about that horn, and some bad things.

I would say that the tuba is VERY powerful for the size, has a great low range, and solid intonation. The sound, to my ear, had a great color and complexity that you couldn't find in 4/4 Hirsbrunners of the time. You can definitely fill in any orchestra with this horn, excepting the largest and most powerful. I found the horn a bit large for quintet when playing nimbly. The horn seemed to take a bit more physical effort to play (possibly due to the weight) than other horns that I've had since.

My biggest complaint back then was the physical layout/design of the horn. The back valve caps were basically inaccessible due to the tight wrap of the slides behind them. I essentially had to go to a repairman to access the caps. The original piston valves were HORRIBLE. They had crappy springs, nylon valve guides that always wore out, and the hand position was awkward enough to cause uneven wear. Basically, the valves hung up all the time. I knew pro players with this horn that had the valves lapped, fabricated original valve guides, etc. to get them to work okay. The same was true of the valves on the improved M-W 2000 model. I also found the leadpipe to be too perpendicular to the bell, causing a stretch of the hand to reach the valves. I had problems with the bottom valve slides falling out during performance as well.

That being said, I do believe that a like-new 2155 is easily worth $7500...I paid $8k new in 1997. It is a do-it-all horn, and if you treat it better than I did as a 16-21 year old, then I think it is a great deal. I definitely recommend play-testing. I reiterate: the 2155 is a LOUD tuba. I had no problem burying any orchestra that I played in with this tuba.

Cheers,
Dan Bradley
Springfield, VA

[willthetubaguy]

Two questions
I see it marketed as a 5/4, but people refer to it as a 4/4? Is more of a 4/4+?

I was talking to Alan Baer about this, he told me that the 2145 and 2155 are more of student horns. Is this true?

[bort]

Two questions
I see it marketed as a 5/4, but people refer to it as a 4/4? Is more of a 4/4+?

I was talking to Alan Baer about this, he told me that the 2145 and 2155 are more of student horns. Is this true?

If a PT-6 is called "5/4", then I'd consider the 2155 to be "4/4+" (a little smaller than the PT-6).

Student horns? No sure what that means... except perhaps that if you look at what professional players are using, it's rarely going to be a 2145 or 2155. You should ask Al, "what do you mean?"

[willthetubaguy]

I would easily choose the best 2155 I've played over the best 3225 I've played...

...though (as I've stated more than once) I would install a smaller mouthpipe tube on any 2155 that I would be planning to keep for my own use.

I heard about the 45SLP leadpipe being good for the horn. How would I get one?

[Argtuba1]

I've been playing on a 2155 since 2001 and have a love/hate relationship with it. I agree, it is a loud, powerful horn and an excellent all-around axe. However, I've found that it is very mouthpiece sensitive and a bit pitch wondering. 2nd partial G is not playable open and 1-2 combos use a lot of 1st slide pulling. Also, at least with the one I play, it has a very short main tuning slide making tuning at 440 a bit of a hassle. Low register is solid but a bit of resistance. I would really like to see if Bloke's multiple suggestions to swap the lead pipe for a smaller one, maybe a 45slp pipe, would make this horn really solid. I imagine it would focus better and not feel like I'm falling into a well.

It'll fill up any hall with a good sized orchestra or band and it fits well with quintet. I think it's a great buy at that price point.

Just my 2 cents.

[toobagrowl]

Two questions
I see it marketed as a 5/4, but people refer to it as a 4/4? Is more of a 4/4+?

I was talking to Alan Baer about this, he told me that the 2145 and 2155 are more of student horns. Is this true?

You should take what even the 'top pros' say with a tiny grain of salt. They have opinions like everyone else.
That said, Meinl-Weston developed the 2145 with Sam Pilafian as a professional quintet/chamber tuba; while the (production/piston) 2155 was developed with Warren Deck as a professional all-around/do-it-all type tuba

I'd say the 2145 is a compact 4/4, while the 2155 is a large 4/4+ tuba. There was the rotary 'prototype' 2155, which was actually a true 5/4; similar in size to the PT-6 and HB-6. But Meinl-Weston and W. Deck soon developed and refined the new (at the time) piston 2155, and 2000 tubas.

[bort]

With no disrespect to Alan... when a person designs his own tubas and mouthpieces, which have his name on them... should we expect him to recommend anything else?

[willthetubaguy]

With no disrespect to Alan... when a person designs his own tubas and mouthpieces, which have his name on them... should we expect him to recommend anything else?

Alan recommended me to an Ursus.