TubeNet

I think what you need is a more squared-off ("dual radius") bottom crook so more water can accumulate without puddling up at the low point of the radius. Then put the water key on the return radius so when you blow the water out you are blowing it toward the exit. with the key at the bottom of the single radius you blow some water past the exit and it falls back.

How about a big convex dimple, (a pimple, a blister??) to collect spit and put the nib at the bottom of that??

As you suggested, most of the water might stay up in the crook due to air trapped below it. That will certainly happen if the nib's inside diameter is very small, and certainly won't happen if the i.d. is large enough. Some simple experimentation will be needed to find out which is the case, i.e. how small is too small.

I prefer the slightly leaky water key with a facecloth wrapped around it to catch the drip. That's what I had on my helicon for quite a few years before I rebuilt the leadpipe with slightly larger tubing and installed a new non-leaky valve section.

This past summer and fall we have had much more tropical weather than usual in CT; practicing at 80-degrees in high humidity I have noticed much less water accumulating. That tells me that it's condensation, not saliva. I'm sure that in your part of the country it has been even more tropical. Have you been using an air conditioner in your practice room? If so, turn it off and your problem will be greatly reduced.

What you need sounds like the “water” reservoir designed for the original Epoch Buescher cornets.



I can tell you that mine works just fine, and I would imagine that as a Buescher endorsed artist, they might help you with the design...

I know you understand what I'm on about, but for those of us who like visuals, plus its fun to do the math even if its irrelevant, but for kicks & giggles I CADded up the 2 scenarios I described above-
turns out the squared off crook holds 68% more water volume than the single radius crook when the bore is 100% constricted. When the bore is only 50% constricted, the squared crook holds 79% more volume than the single radius. That translates to approximately 70-80% more playing time, or 13.25 measures at 4/4 120bpm at mezzo forte, 68.5 degrees Fahrenheit and 50% relative humidity before having to stop to drain the sump!

note the down stream placement of the water key for efficient evacuation. I noticed in your photo the 4th valve loop water key is on the upstream side- you might want to consider reversing that one too, simple enough to flip the tuning slide around.

There are some that say that a squared off 1'st crook on a trombone gives better "feedback" to the player; something about reflection of sound waves yada yada yada.

I took that more like this:

how about just one of those "dribbly" valves you hate but with a secondary reservoir below it so it doesn't constantly spray all over your shoes?

Perhaps the dumbest idea ever:

put a rotor valve in the center of the main tuning slide. leave the slide side ports open and facing down.

The water will then have big holes to go out quickly when you choose to activate it. The button to activate could be as fast as a valve because that's what it is.



An artist, I am not.

The disadvantage might be weight. In that case, there are always these:

I think a rotor normally turns 90 degrees (??). In the "normal" position, it should be perfectly aligned so it doesn't leak. In the "let the water out" position, it probably shouldn't be aligned perfectly. Maybe even only halfway open (45 degrees?) so the rotor ports are still halfway open to both sides so the water can flow out. Since there's less distance to travel, the release might even make it faster. edit--> on second thought, this might not be necessary.

I wouldn't cut your pretty tuning slide if you decide to do this. I'd make an alternate one just to see if this idea has merit. I'd guess you'd probably want to make two crooks. IIRC, it is a tapered crook from .656" to .689". Given the small side of the tuning slide is .656" (16.65mm) and the large side is .689" (17.5mm), the ideal rotor size might be around .6725" (17.1mm). A 17mm (.669", B&S Symphonie 5th valve size) rotor might be about right?

https://www.1stbrigadeband.org/app/inst ... 28065A.jpg" target="_blank