Trying to get free moving slides. Please help

[WCUTubaGuy]

Hello everyone,
I am currently in the process of trying to get my first, third, and fourth valve slides moving smoothly so that I can adjust tuning on the fly. I am currently playing on a MW2145s so the slides are very easy to reach and have plenty of clearance, but they also have not had to move much since I got the horn in early 2014. I can currently move the slides it is just a little difficult and too slow to do for on the fly tuning adjustments. I am looking for any advice on what I can do to really get these slides moving smoothly without having to take the horn to a technician. I am also looking for some slide grease/oil recommendations for smooth moving slides. Thanks in advance, and if you have any other questions or comments let me know.

[WCUTubaGuy]

I wouldn't say that the slides work well right now. I do have to firmly pull in order to get them out to empty spit. I'd probably give the first valve an B- and both the third and fourth a C-
That's why I don't know if it is the slides them selves or if they just need a good cleaning and better lubricant.

[k001k47]

As far as grease goes, I personally use a dab of STP oil treatment (picked up the per a suggestion by the TNFJ; cheap and lasts long. Used it ever since) and thin it with whatever valve oil I have in the bag. It is a little pungent, and probably hazardous to breathe the fumes, but I don't mind it.

[tubasoldier]

As far as grease goes, I personally use a dab of STP oil treatment

This is great. I've used STP for years on all my brass instruments. I just recently tried Lucas oil because I had some in my garage. It is a bit more smooth than STP but does not last as long on the slides.

[k001k47]

As far as grease goes, I personally use a dab of STP oil treatment

This is great. I've used STP for years on all my brass instruments. I just recently tried Lucas oil because I had some in my garage. It is a bit more smooth than STP but does not last as long on the slides.

Is it treatment oil? (additive advertised to reduce friction and wear etc. )

[k001k47]

I wouldn't say that the slides work well right now. I do have to firmly pull in order to get them out to empty spit. I'd probably give the first valve an B- and both the third and fourth a C-
That's why I don't know if it is the slides them selves or if they just need a good cleaning and better lubricant.

individual sets...NOT both sets at the same time...

How do the individual sets work...tight or loose?

Is this what you mean, bloke?

[Awegner2]

I believe that what you've illustrated is what Bloke is referring to. If you take the slide out, insert only one side at a time, and they each move freely- then you have an alignment problem. The tubes themselves need to be parallel as well as co-planar. In a perfect world, a granite surface plate is an ideal reference for adjusting the plane of your tubes. You can find smaller cheap ones online at various retailers like Grizzly or Shars. If you don't want to pop for a surface plate, plate glass tends to be very flat and will likely suit your needs. As far as achieving parallelism, I prefer to use spring calipers and go by feel. Dial calipers will work fine, as will a micrometer if you have them in the appropriate sizes. Spring calipers are inexpensive and require no maintenance. Close them around the tubes near the solder joints until you get the slightest drag. Then move to the end of the tubes and gingerly push/ pull them until you achieve the same drag. A good hand can feel differences within 0.001. Go back to the plate to check the plane after adjusting. Repeat these processes until they're co-planar and parallel. As for lubricant, I use Lanolin on the bottom slides that seldom move, and oil treatment on all but my 1st top slide. I use 80W gear oil there, as it's slightly faster than the oil treatment. Also, don't be afraid to polish the tubes with some Brasso or equivalent micro-abrasive polish while you're at it! Hope that helps.

[k001k47]

Of course, "perfect" and "exquisitely-fitted individual pairs of tubes" will offer "piston-like" action and WITHOUT sanding down (eek! ) slide tubes.

A friend of mine had a jimbo 410, which (I'm assuming) had a 2nd slide that wasn't aligned well and lapped (too much) to fit. He could launch it out of the outer slide tubes by playing aggressively.