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It's come to my attention that the "green slime" stuff that shows up in my horns is likely from synthetic oils. My Willson used to get a ton of it, and I only used Hetman in that horn. My Conn gets it and I use Yamaha Synthetic Vintage.

If that's the case, what are some good petroleum-based alternatives? That stuff builds up in the valves and causes catches.

Al Cass seems pretty clean. Blue Juice has worked great as well.

doublebuzzing wrote:Al Cass seems pretty clean. Blue Juice has worked great as well.

I've gotten sticky, gunky valves from long-term use of Blue Juice. I've tried more than one bottle of the stuff, and have gotten the same result each time.

Straight Al Cass on tight valves works for me, and I have another bottle with mineral oil added for worn valves. Never had any problems with Al Cass.

I used to use Vincent Bach valve oil ages ago. It was a tad thicker than Al Cass and Holton oil, which made it wonderful for tuba piston valves--but not so wonderful on trumpets and cornets with tight valves. I might have to revisit that if my switch to Hetman #3 results in gunky valves.

I have tried every oil manufactured in the last forty years. The only oil for me which has good lubricity, is long lasting, doesn't gunk up, and "plays well with others," meaning whatever slide greases you use, is Roche-Thomas. In addition to the standard 2-oz case bottle, it comes in a 16-ounce refill bottle for @$8.00 on Amazon. I am still using the one I got years ago, and it is still keeping my valves well lubricated, free of gunk, and a pleasure to play.


https://www.amazon.com/Roche-Thomas-RT2 ... B005SUSLXU" target="_blank

bloke wrote:I'm sure people tire of this, but I continue to buy ultrapure lamp oil by the 2-gal. jug on Amazon (c. 18 cents/oz). My valves never stick, and the only minor dirt is my fault - when I fail to clean regularly (minimally, jetting hot water through the valveset and out the small side of the main slide).

I use 30W in a needle oiler on the spindle bearings of rotary valves.

I use STP Oil Treatment on main slides, and I use ultrapure lamp oil on most all other slides...(My slides are precision-fit, so lamp oil is just fine.)

It bears repeating that if you go with lamp oil, you gotta buy Ultrapure.

Other lamp oils usually develop rancid odours after a couple of years. If you don't use oil lamps around your household, you'll eventually end up with a big bottle of yucky/vile valve oil.

BuddyRogersMusic wrote:Al Cass is no longer in production but American Way Marketing has a replacement that looks strikingly similar. I don't think the formula has changed much but there may be some difference. Search for Superslick Fast Oil.

Wow, I had no clue! I felt that was the most ubiquitous oil on the market, so I'm super surprised to see that it's gone!

bloke wrote:I'm sure people tire of this, but I continue to buy ultrapure lamp oil by the 2-gal. jug on Amazon (c. 18 cents/oz).

I love it when people use stuff to replace overpriced accessories for musicians. I still use the Pond's Cold Cream deal that Bill Watrous taught me a while back.

My old Conn 12J needs more viscous oil--more than one repairman has recommended "vintage" or "classic" oils. So I guess I would thicken lamp oil with mineral oil? At what ratio?

BopEuph wrote:My old Conn 12J needs more viscous oil--more than one repairman has recommended "vintage" or "classic" oils. So I guess I would thicken lamp oil with mineral oil? At what ratio?

I've used motor oil, whatever ratio suits you. You'd find out by mixing it a little too stiff, which doesn't take much motor oil. Then add some more lamp oil to thin it back down (but bear in mind that you're using that to thin out the oil that's now in the valves, so it will still be too sticky at first.

Lately, though, I've been using another automotive product, Hy-Per Lube, a very thick oil, after someone else tried it and mentioned it here. He spread it on the pistons and then wiped them down, leaving just a thin film. I have some really loose valves and I can spread it on thin enough without needing to polish it off. I believe its purpose in automotive use is to stay in the works after the motor has stopped and the thinner stuff drains off, so it's supposed to be able to cling to surfaces.

I was under the impression that Al Cass was a very light oil, suitable for smaller brass instruments, or maybe rotors. I never heard of using it on piston tubas. Am I wrong regarding this?