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Re: Rotary Oiling

Postby bloke » Wed Mar 06, 2019 8:31 pm

30W will migrate through any space that is a large enough space for two surfaces to turn against each other.
Again, if the fit is incredibly good, one could step down from 30W to something between that and lamp oil.

Oil is nearly always good to apply generously between two metal surfaces that move against each other. Something too thin is better than nothing. Something too thick can become a bit annoying.
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Re: Rotary Oiling

Postby tofu » Wed Mar 06, 2019 9:24 pm

Mark Finley wrote:
tofu wrote:
Mark Finley wrote:You know, reading that link, nobody mentioned my method for oiling, which is putting a drop of oil directly on the back bearing, and then pull a valve slide to suction it into the bearing. I can't be the only person that does that


Ummm...he has an old Mirafone - so the bottom of the rotor cap has an adjustment screw and not an opening. He'd have to unscrew the rotor cap for each valve and I've never had a horn where that was a quick process. I do remove them once a month, but I'm putting a heavier oil on the bearing.



????
Removing a rotor cap is easy, especially if you do it on a regular basis and never let them get stuck

Never said it wasn't easy - it's just not quick - like you were portraying it - with just flipping the horn over and putting it in through the hole in the cap - which is not going to be there on his old Mirafone

?????
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Re: Rotary Oiling

Postby Mark Finley » Wed Mar 06, 2019 11:48 pm

The hole isn't there for oiling, I would never consider using it for that.
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Re: Rotary Oiling

Postby windshieldbug » Thu Mar 07, 2019 1:07 am

Mark Finley wrote:The hole isn't there for oiling, I would never consider using it for that.


It’s there for adjustment, and 8)
Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
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Re: Rotary Oiling

Postby Awegner2 » Fri Mar 08, 2019 7:00 pm

I oil my fifth rotor through the screw hole on the bumper retaining plate. It's been a through hole on every rotary instrument I've owned. Get a small standard head screwdriver, pop out one screw, pour a generous amount of your favorite valve oil in via needle oiler, and forget about it for a while. Excess will inevitably work its way out through the spindles of the rotor. I've found that this works well for me. The trick with the slide pulling also works well on quality horns. Didn't work on my clapped out Cerveny 686. Those rotors were so worn that they'd vibrate on low notes with any valve oil I put in there. ATF ended up being my lubricating means before I sold the horn. It actually helped the compression of the horn a lot...
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Re: Rotary Oiling

Postby tofu » Sun Mar 10, 2019 12:53 am

Mark Finley wrote:The hole isn't there for oiling, I would never consider using it for that.


Well I knew that - I guess I assumed that you were using a needle valve oil bottle - as spinning all 4 caps off I would not view as being quick as well as I'd be reluctant to do that for fear of the vacuum pulling up dirt. But if it works for you great.
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