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Hello Everyone,

I was just given an old Miraphone 5V-CC that was probably made around the 70s. Because it had been sitting in a garage for over a decade, I intend to take it in for an overhaul this week to get it back up to snuff.

I've been browsing all over this forum regarding the topic of rotary oiling and the different oils one may need to ensure their instrument is at peak performance. I have yet to see some sort of consensus.

If possible, would any of you mind shedding some light on which oils I should buy for my horn?

Thank you and I hope to hear from you all soon!

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33723" target="_blank

JJ

WiFiber wrote: I have yet to see some sort of consensus.

You are not gonna find consensus here because we are like a herd of cats with different opinions

Honestly, any needle oiler with rotor oil will do the job. I use a mixture of 3-in-1 oil / clear lamp oil.

For a great source of rotary valve maintenance, check out Jeff Funderburk's web site at UNI. He has a bunch of videos on how everything is done:

https://sites.uni.edu/drfun/repair_vide ... index.html" target="_blank

Roger

I agree with Mark . I put a drop of oil on the bearings and pull the tuning slide to suction it into the bearing. About once a week I do squirt oil down the mouth pipe to get (hopefully) some to the other side of the bearing.

Mark Finley wrote:You know, reading that link, nobody mentioned my method for oiling, which is putting a drop of oil directly on the back bearing, and then pull a valve slide to suction it into the bearing. I can't be the only person that does that

I do the same thing once a week, Mark, and also to the top bearing, as well.

I also put blue juice valve oil down the leadpipe.

Put some 3-in-1 oil on the valve things that move and drink lots of beer while I play. The more I drink and play, the better the tuba and I feel.

Well what came as the first visual on "rotary oiling" was how to whirl the oil in a circle....maybe fasten it to a bicycle wheel which you then spin?
Sorry. It's that kind of day ....

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Yes, I also oil the top and bottom spindle bearings and pull the slides to suction the oil in
Right now, my rotor oil mixture is 3-in-1, lamp oil, and a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil, all blended together I oil the linkage when needed.
I also spurt some thinner viscosity oil down the mouthpipe every once in a while.

One thing that needs to be mentioned - make sure the back bearing PLATES are on good and flush; especially on older rotor horns. Can make a difference in how well your rotors move, as well as have an affect on compression

You Marvel Mystery Oil folks need to step up to the 21st Century and get with the STP!!

bloke wrote:I would sort of hope that my rotors fit a little closer than for a vacuum to be able to get past the rotor side walls far enough to pull oil into the spindle bearings.

Why oil the bearings if no oil 'gets thru' where it's needed? Oiling the bearings only on their surfaces, it seems, won't do much. Doesn't the oil need to 'coat' the entire spindle bearing nub? Even on my 'tight' Meinl CC with great pop/compression, I pull the slides to vacuum the oil in and coat the bearing nubs

Three Valves wrote:You Marvel Mystery Oil folks need to step up to the 21st Century and get with the STP!!

I'm actually kinda new to Marvel Mystery Oil -- started using the stuff maybe a month ago. Love mixing it with other oils. It's good, cheap stuff

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Mark Finley wrote:The hole isn't there for oiling, I would never consider using it for that.

It’s there for adjustment, and

I oil my fifth rotor through the screw hole on the bumper retaining plate. It's been a through hole on every rotary instrument I've owned. Get a small standard head screwdriver, pop out one screw, pour a generous amount of your favorite valve oil in via needle oiler, and forget about it for a while. Excess will inevitably work its way out through the spindles of the rotor. I've found that this works well for me. The trick with the slide pulling also works well on quality horns. Didn't work on my clapped out Cerveny 686. Those rotors were so worn that they'd vibrate on low notes with any valve oil I put in there. ATF ended up being my lubricating means before I sold the horn. It actually helped the compression of the horn a lot...

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