The Elusive Eastman 853 Eb: An Initial Review
Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 10:19 am
I’m a lucky new owner of this incredulous, yet very cool new Eb offering from Eastman. I’m not much of a “review guy,” but I’ve been kindly (and firmly) asked by some folks to share my brief experience with this instrument. The TubeNet community has done a lot for me, so I thought I’d give it a try while it’s too early in the AM to practice in the apartment of my co-op building.
Foreword:
2019 Has been weird tuba year for me.
After putting more and more time behind the sousa (which entails at least 95% of my playing out nowadays), I grew increasing buyer’s remorse for my 5/4, 28lb BBb that quite frankly felt like a chore to pick up and practice… let alone schlep to community band rehearsal in another borough (referring to my former Wessex Viverna which was a fine instrument that I sold to a fellow TubeNetter who seems to have a better use for it than I do). I personally don’t have the income or talent for a single, or even dual-use, instrument. I need an urban do-it-all horn that won’t devour my apartment or kill my back schlepping it on the subway, but also an instrument that I could use to start tackling my solo rep bucket list.
TL;DR review… this tuba was just the prescription I needed.
Before pulling the trigger on the 853, I was offered an even trade of my Wessex BBb for a M-W 2141, and other person even offered up a gorgeous PT-22. It was a really tough decision to make, but Matt Walters at Dillon’s made it easier by offering an amazing deal and custom setup on this horn (all valves vented, etc)... not to mention actually having the horn on site to play test before buying (I wasn’t about to make that mistake again)!
At Dillon’s, I also play-tested a lacquer Eastman 851 (15” bell version of the same horn) and a Miraphone Norwegian Star just to compare apples to… different-flavored apples. However, the 853 had an extra smidge of York-esque broadness to the tone over the 851 which I enjoyed, due to the larger bell. Plus, I’m smitten by bass tubas in silver plate. The 853 was also a slightly newer incarnation of the model with more appealing hardware (most notably York-style valve caps that threaded nicer). The N-Star did have slightly better “point and shoot” upper-register intonation, but it was also cursed with a bad case of “dead low Bb” (like a the 4th valve low C on some rotor F horns, but worse IMHO). On top of that, the non-compensating low register on the Star was insanely sharp and I don’t have the brain capacity at this stage in my life to learn the dreaded 5-valve Eb “everything’s-off-by-a-half-step-now-add-a-another-button-to-mash” manual compensation fingering system. Even if I had the budget for the Miraphone, I need a horn with a relatively easy to think about and open low register... and I found that in the Eastman! (Note: this reason is ultimately why I passed on the 1291/PT-22)
Intonation:
I’ll start with this one because it’s a controversial element around this model, and arguably any new-to-market tuba. Intonation is actually quite good – better than expected, but not point and shoot like the 632 I owned before this (not like that’s a fair comparison). All notes are more than workable within normal tendencies EXCEPT the 2-3 valve combo notes, particularly B-natural… the the B above the staff is so flat, it registers as a “sharp-B-flat.” 5th partial G and Eb above the staff *might* be a tad flat, but certainly lip-able (or corrected by 1-2 in the case of the G), but these nit-picky tendencies may also be ME at this juncture in my learning the horn (this is my first bass tuba, after all).
First, I’m currently using a larger-cup mouthpiece than I should be (Parker Chris Hall Contrabass Medium and a pretty large backbore), so if I’ve not pushing steady air, all notes all over the horn can ride low (looking to source a smaller Houser cup for this horn; the Eastman also came with a Nice Shires 8 that I SHOULD try). Regarding the 3rd valve combos, Matt is doing me a solid and trimming my 3rd valve loop in a couple of weeks. To those in cue to buy: this issue is supposedly fixed with the next, and presumably final iteration, of this horn. But for what I paid, I have no complaints about accepting a simple plumbing modification as an elegant solution.
One more thing I’ll add on this topic is how nicely in tune the 1-3 combo notes are, opening up a lot of useful fingering options. Once Matt gives the 3rd circuit a little nip-tuck, I feel this horn will be able to be easily played in tune all over the register, even by a hack like me.
Sound:
I’m not a bass tuba cork-sniffer by any means, but I know what a good-sounding tuba should sound like, and this tuba sounds like one, to me. As a disclaimer: prior to this purchase, I’ve only played a B&S F tuba in college forever ago, a few Ebs in the elephant room at the army conference, and the the 2 horns I mentioned above.
That being said, I find the sounds I’m making to be addictive and enjoyable, to me. The upper range is accessible and sings, the middle register slots very well and can really cut if you want it to, and the low register blows more open than any horn I’ve ever owned. Despite being a compensating bass tuba, I feel that my low register air is being used more effectively than the 5-valve CC/BBbs I’ve owned before this. Take that for what it’s worth and know that I’m speaking in relative terms.
To my ears, the 17” bell version can get you in the pillowy “York zone” with big, soft air. You can comp a cool, vintage string bass-like tone too. You can also achieve a nice, Germanic F-tuba edge on your tone too that I think symphonic folks will enjoy. Don’t ask me to expend on any of this – we all know the perils of converting sounds to internet words. Simply put, it’s a dynamic voice that impresses my ears when I’m playing it. I’ll see what the rehearsal hall/other ears have to say about it next week.
Ergonomics:
The horn is a light, balanced, joy to play. The big valve-buttons aid the maneuverability of the the already easy to reach valves. About a half-dozen folks on FB have asked me about the valve reach. Personally, I think it’s perfect.
Tuning slides 1, 3, and 4 are all top-accessible and move freely (2 is located around the back). The 1st valve slide (which I haven’t had to touch) can be reached either under the top bow if you have short arms, but I personally would reach my long arm around the front.
Bloke: to answer the question you had in another thread, it’s super-duper-easy to reach your left arm around to manipulate the 4th valve, if that’s your cup-o-tea. The night I first had the horn, I got asked to sub in for a trad jazz rehearsal at the last second and I didn’t have time to grab my sousaphone (I was coming straight from a masterclass with Bob Stewart), so I brought this horn to read some charts I’ve never seen before. It was all walking bass stuff, written up the octave (as expected). But I wasn’t about to make an *** of myself by transposing the octave AND figuring out new fingerings… so I cheated. I reached right around and held down that 4th valve and played BBb “sousaphone.” Easy.
Ya know what? It worked in a pinch! In the “pizz bass” context, the tone and tuning were certainly “good’n’uff.” The drummer and bandleader (who are not hacks) were pleased. I’ve been practicing a lot since last Tuesday and I probably (well, hopefully) won’t need to do that ever again, but it’s a nifty hack (for hacks) that only works on a compensating horn. However, it really cool that I have a pocket “sousaphone” I can use to practice BBb stuff when I’m too lazy or it’s too late to use the real thing.
Sorry, there goes the ADD. What was I talking about again? Right, ergonomics. Oh… the horn is a super-lightweight. Matt said Eastman is using hand-hammered sheet brass for this model (perhaps Wessex is to thank for applying some competitive pressure). Note: Matt did not design this horn, he just stands behind it. Don Sawday is credited as the chief designer.
The Eastman weighs in at 16.5 lbs according to my bathroom scale. By doing this, I also found out I gained 5lbs, so thanks TubeNet!
Lastly, the horn is balanced perfectly. It doesn’t want to tip left like some big York copies. And the leadpipe is positioned thoughtfully to accommodate players of many different statures.
[...]
Foreword:
2019 Has been weird tuba year for me.
After putting more and more time behind the sousa (which entails at least 95% of my playing out nowadays), I grew increasing buyer’s remorse for my 5/4, 28lb BBb that quite frankly felt like a chore to pick up and practice… let alone schlep to community band rehearsal in another borough (referring to my former Wessex Viverna which was a fine instrument that I sold to a fellow TubeNetter who seems to have a better use for it than I do). I personally don’t have the income or talent for a single, or even dual-use, instrument. I need an urban do-it-all horn that won’t devour my apartment or kill my back schlepping it on the subway, but also an instrument that I could use to start tackling my solo rep bucket list.
TL;DR review… this tuba was just the prescription I needed.
Before pulling the trigger on the 853, I was offered an even trade of my Wessex BBb for a M-W 2141, and other person even offered up a gorgeous PT-22. It was a really tough decision to make, but Matt Walters at Dillon’s made it easier by offering an amazing deal and custom setup on this horn (all valves vented, etc)... not to mention actually having the horn on site to play test before buying (I wasn’t about to make that mistake again)!
At Dillon’s, I also play-tested a lacquer Eastman 851 (15” bell version of the same horn) and a Miraphone Norwegian Star just to compare apples to… different-flavored apples. However, the 853 had an extra smidge of York-esque broadness to the tone over the 851 which I enjoyed, due to the larger bell. Plus, I’m smitten by bass tubas in silver plate. The 853 was also a slightly newer incarnation of the model with more appealing hardware (most notably York-style valve caps that threaded nicer). The N-Star did have slightly better “point and shoot” upper-register intonation, but it was also cursed with a bad case of “dead low Bb” (like a the 4th valve low C on some rotor F horns, but worse IMHO). On top of that, the non-compensating low register on the Star was insanely sharp and I don’t have the brain capacity at this stage in my life to learn the dreaded 5-valve Eb “everything’s-off-by-a-half-step-now-add-a-another-button-to-mash” manual compensation fingering system. Even if I had the budget for the Miraphone, I need a horn with a relatively easy to think about and open low register... and I found that in the Eastman! (Note: this reason is ultimately why I passed on the 1291/PT-22)
Intonation:
I’ll start with this one because it’s a controversial element around this model, and arguably any new-to-market tuba. Intonation is actually quite good – better than expected, but not point and shoot like the 632 I owned before this (not like that’s a fair comparison). All notes are more than workable within normal tendencies EXCEPT the 2-3 valve combo notes, particularly B-natural… the the B above the staff is so flat, it registers as a “sharp-B-flat.” 5th partial G and Eb above the staff *might* be a tad flat, but certainly lip-able (or corrected by 1-2 in the case of the G), but these nit-picky tendencies may also be ME at this juncture in my learning the horn (this is my first bass tuba, after all).
First, I’m currently using a larger-cup mouthpiece than I should be (Parker Chris Hall Contrabass Medium and a pretty large backbore), so if I’ve not pushing steady air, all notes all over the horn can ride low (looking to source a smaller Houser cup for this horn; the Eastman also came with a Nice Shires 8 that I SHOULD try). Regarding the 3rd valve combos, Matt is doing me a solid and trimming my 3rd valve loop in a couple of weeks. To those in cue to buy: this issue is supposedly fixed with the next, and presumably final iteration, of this horn. But for what I paid, I have no complaints about accepting a simple plumbing modification as an elegant solution.
One more thing I’ll add on this topic is how nicely in tune the 1-3 combo notes are, opening up a lot of useful fingering options. Once Matt gives the 3rd circuit a little nip-tuck, I feel this horn will be able to be easily played in tune all over the register, even by a hack like me.
Sound:
I’m not a bass tuba cork-sniffer by any means, but I know what a good-sounding tuba should sound like, and this tuba sounds like one, to me. As a disclaimer: prior to this purchase, I’ve only played a B&S F tuba in college forever ago, a few Ebs in the elephant room at the army conference, and the the 2 horns I mentioned above.
That being said, I find the sounds I’m making to be addictive and enjoyable, to me. The upper range is accessible and sings, the middle register slots very well and can really cut if you want it to, and the low register blows more open than any horn I’ve ever owned. Despite being a compensating bass tuba, I feel that my low register air is being used more effectively than the 5-valve CC/BBbs I’ve owned before this. Take that for what it’s worth and know that I’m speaking in relative terms.
To my ears, the 17” bell version can get you in the pillowy “York zone” with big, soft air. You can comp a cool, vintage string bass-like tone too. You can also achieve a nice, Germanic F-tuba edge on your tone too that I think symphonic folks will enjoy. Don’t ask me to expend on any of this – we all know the perils of converting sounds to internet words. Simply put, it’s a dynamic voice that impresses my ears when I’m playing it. I’ll see what the rehearsal hall/other ears have to say about it next week.
Ergonomics:
The horn is a light, balanced, joy to play. The big valve-buttons aid the maneuverability of the the already easy to reach valves. About a half-dozen folks on FB have asked me about the valve reach. Personally, I think it’s perfect.
Tuning slides 1, 3, and 4 are all top-accessible and move freely (2 is located around the back). The 1st valve slide (which I haven’t had to touch) can be reached either under the top bow if you have short arms, but I personally would reach my long arm around the front.
Bloke: to answer the question you had in another thread, it’s super-duper-easy to reach your left arm around to manipulate the 4th valve, if that’s your cup-o-tea. The night I first had the horn, I got asked to sub in for a trad jazz rehearsal at the last second and I didn’t have time to grab my sousaphone (I was coming straight from a masterclass with Bob Stewart), so I brought this horn to read some charts I’ve never seen before. It was all walking bass stuff, written up the octave (as expected). But I wasn’t about to make an *** of myself by transposing the octave AND figuring out new fingerings… so I cheated. I reached right around and held down that 4th valve and played BBb “sousaphone.” Easy.
Ya know what? It worked in a pinch! In the “pizz bass” context, the tone and tuning were certainly “good’n’uff.” The drummer and bandleader (who are not hacks) were pleased. I’ve been practicing a lot since last Tuesday and I probably (well, hopefully) won’t need to do that ever again, but it’s a nifty hack (for hacks) that only works on a compensating horn. However, it really cool that I have a pocket “sousaphone” I can use to practice BBb stuff when I’m too lazy or it’s too late to use the real thing.
Sorry, there goes the ADD. What was I talking about again? Right, ergonomics. Oh… the horn is a super-lightweight. Matt said Eastman is using hand-hammered sheet brass for this model (perhaps Wessex is to thank for applying some competitive pressure). Note: Matt did not design this horn, he just stands behind it. Don Sawday is credited as the chief designer.
The Eastman weighs in at 16.5 lbs according to my bathroom scale. By doing this, I also found out I gained 5lbs, so thanks TubeNet!
Lastly, the horn is balanced perfectly. It doesn’t want to tip left like some big York copies. And the leadpipe is positioned thoughtfully to accommodate players of many different statures.
[...]

