Hello everyone! I am writing to ask how you properly oil rotary valves. I have always played a piston horn and have purchased a rotary valved horn so I wanted to know how. I have heard some say to just pour it down the first valve slide and start pressing the valves. I have also heard others say to remove the caps behind the valves and oil them that way. So what's the best or most efficient way? Any and all information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Ralph
Oiling Rotary Valves
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Allen
- 3 valves
- Posts: 404
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 12:29 am
- Location: Boston MA area
Rotary valve mechanisms need different lubricants applied to the different types of moving parts.
For internal lubrication, I remove the slide from the topmost valve (in my case, the 5th), and put two or three squirts of valve oil in. I use Blue Juice, but others may have different favorites. I then hold down the 1st valve while working the 5th. Then, without letting go of the 1st valve, I hold down the 2nd. Then, I can work the 1st valve. I work my way down. Some people like to pour valve oil down the leadpipt, but I have found that some can get into the mouthpiece; I don't like that. Oil every two days.
The spindle bearings of the rotors need lubrication with light machine oil. One bearing of each is under the cap behind the valve, and the other is on top. Oil once a month.
The linkages need their ball joints lubricated with heavy ball joint oil. Oil once a month.
The axles for the keys themselves need lubrication with light machine oil. Try not to get oil on the springs; it's messy that way. Oil once a month.
Along with two different types of slide lubricant, that's five different lubricants for my tuba. I mostly use Hetman.
The forgoing sounds complicated, but it's really easy. This procedure has kept my valves fast, easy and reliable.
Allen Walker
For internal lubrication, I remove the slide from the topmost valve (in my case, the 5th), and put two or three squirts of valve oil in. I use Blue Juice, but others may have different favorites. I then hold down the 1st valve while working the 5th. Then, without letting go of the 1st valve, I hold down the 2nd. Then, I can work the 1st valve. I work my way down. Some people like to pour valve oil down the leadpipt, but I have found that some can get into the mouthpiece; I don't like that. Oil every two days.
The spindle bearings of the rotors need lubrication with light machine oil. One bearing of each is under the cap behind the valve, and the other is on top. Oil once a month.
The linkages need their ball joints lubricated with heavy ball joint oil. Oil once a month.
The axles for the keys themselves need lubrication with light machine oil. Try not to get oil on the springs; it's messy that way. Oil once a month.
Along with two different types of slide lubricant, that's five different lubricants for my tuba. I mostly use Hetman.
The forgoing sounds complicated, but it's really easy. This procedure has kept my valves fast, easy and reliable.
Allen Walker
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Tom B.
- bugler
- Posts: 81
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 5:41 am
- Location: Marquette, MI
A great article on the subject is available at
http://www.lyricbrass.com/spang/articles.html
I think someone else on this board suggested it to me in the first place.
Tom
http://www.lyricbrass.com/spang/articles.html
I think someone else on this board suggested it to me in the first place.
Tom
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Rick Denney
- Resident Genius
- Posts: 6650
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 1:18 am
- Contact:
I think this may be a bit over the top. I'd use the same light machine oil for the rotor bearings, the ball joints, and the linkage shaft.Allen wrote:Along with two different types of slide lubricant, that's five different lubricants for my tuba. I mostly use Hetman.
I would also be careful about squirting a lot of oil down a tuning slide. Unless you hold the horn absolutely vertical and the drop hits nothing until it gets past the slide, it has a good chance of dissolving a bit of slide grease and carrying it into the valves, where it will gum things up.
I think it's better to squirt the oil down the leadpipe. And it has the added advantage of coating the leadpipe with oil, which will help prevent corrosion.
Rick "who uses Hetman rotor oil on everything except the valve bodies, and who rarely needs to oil those" Denney