Quiet Wall™

[Tabor]

That is an approach, also putting some kind of bushing or spacer between wall surfaces and studs, so they don't become a passive radiator. Before spending too much time and effort, I would get a bunch of that recycled newspaper "green fiber" insulation and insulate the walls, and try to make sure there is a good door seal. That green fiber stuff is very good at absorbing sound.

[anotherjtm2]

It looks like it adds a little mass, and it's impermeable, so it should help a little with high frequencies, and also the kind of direct transmission that plastic on sheetrock should block anyway.

Combine it with offset studs so there's no connection between the two sides of the wall (most important for low frequencies) and plenty of insulation.

If you're after real soundproofing, you'll want to add plenty of mass to your barriers, as well as decoupling the surfaces from one another. And remember to avoid parallel surfaces within the room, to reduce resonances.

[marking]

I don't have any experience with this particular product, but I have been involved a handful of construction projects where sound attenuation was the goal.

It looks like Quiet Wall works as a method to decouple the wall surface from the studs to reduce vibrations through the wall. This can also be achieved with special "caulks", sound isolation z-strips or perhaps by using Quiet Wall strips just on the studs. I'm sure what affect the sheet of material has between the studs.

Building a wall with staggered studs also minimizes through-the-stud transmission.

Having dissimilar wall surfaces also helps. Half inch drywall on one side of the wall and 5/8 on the other. (Building a wall with identical, uniform wall materials is a recipe for making a drum.)

All attenuation methods affect different frequencies so it's probably best to use multiple methods.

Hopefully someone with more detailed, technical knowledge will chime in to suppliment my limited insights.

[peterbas]

It looks like it adds a little mass, and it's impermeable, so it should help a little with high frequencies, and also the kind of direct transmission that plastic on sheetrock should block anyway.

Combine it with offset studs so there's no connection between the two sides of the wall (most important for low frequencies) and plenty of insulation.

If you're after real soundproofing, you'll want to add plenty of mass to your barriers, as well as decoupling the surfaces from one another. And remember to avoid parallel surfaces within the room, to reduce resonances.

It a mass loaded vinyl so the mass is used to damped to drywall that is resonating with the low frequencies. There is also some open foam that is working at higher frequencies and it is airtight so no sound while seep through.
For example there are mass loaded inside sewer pipes that reduce the noise considerably.

[peterbas]

again...
I was wondering about this product in the actual room's walls, and then building a room-within-a-room (including elevated floor and slightly lowered ceiling) with this system.

To make a room in a room work good you must make it so that there is as little off hard connections between the two rooms.
Like the new floor has to be seperated from the old one with a layer dampening materiaal (rubber like) also no direct contact with the walls.
For the walls best would be a double not touching metal stud construction with rockwool inside for sound absorption.
You need to minimize the soundleaks with the quiet wall or some other airtight membrane to seal the wall.
For the doors it is also best to use two doorpanels with rockwol inside to absorb again the sound.

Problem now is that your room is smaller so it sounds worse. You need now some absorbers on the wall (again rockwool) to lower the RT60 value.
To finish it off install some diffusors to smooth out the resonances of the room.

First thing to take look at is what is the construction now, how much improvement do you want, where is the improvement needed for example outdoor walls it is not needed.
You can sometimes get a lot of improvement for little money but a good room in room is going to be expensive.

[peterbas]

I would contact the guys who built this...https://www.cnn.com/2020/07/07/europe/d ... index.html" target="_blank" target="_blank

Great, that is no more than 100 miles from my home.

[scottw]

Check out the video...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quiet-Wall- ... /309264086

It's a product name, not a generic description.

You missed the most important part of the whole video: They installed Rosul [rock wool] insulation between the studs, then simply used the ice shield as a means of isolating [somewhat] the transmission of sound through the studs themselves. I personally would either skip the shielding altogether or apply it to studs only. Better yet, stagger the studs using a 2x8 top and bottom plate and weave Rosul between the staggered studs. If you really want to overdo it, add metal sound attenuation strips on the studs under the drywall.

[scottw]

I didn't miss any of the video...(??)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quiet-Wall- ... /309264086" target="_blank

31 seconds in, they show the guy applying Rosul/Roxul insulation prior to the ice shield they are re-purposing for acoustical work. It's the Rosul that is doing the heavy lifting, not really the sheeting.