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Depends--if I"m taking a horn apart, I'll use propane and one of those swirl burners--can do it in nothing flat. If it's fine soldering, I'll use a very small propane penci tip.

If I'm silver-soldering, I'll use acetylene-air. If I'm putting a horn together, acetylene-ar, except for the small stuff.

Sometimes I'll use MAPP-air

.

I go straight to the source....

Acetylene/air and a Prestolite torch for soft-soldering and silver-bearing soldeing. Oxy/acetylene for silver-soldering and brazing.

I will eventually get a natural gas burner for woodwind (yuck!) repair.

goodgigs wrote:My friend solders with acceteline/air I use propaine what do you use ?

Oxy/Acetylene with a Smith's Little Torch-for detail work inside the house.

Propane-disassembly-outside only. Propane is heavier than air and creates a danger of explosion inside. For example, leaking propane could sink and accumulate in the basement, the lowest spot in the house.

Dean E wrote:Propane-disassembly-outside only. Propane is heavier than air and creates a danger of explosion inside. For example, leaking propane could sink and accumulate in the basement, the lowest spot in the house.

Humm... so my propane stove in the kitchen shouldn't be used in doors?

What about my water heater, furnace and clothes dryer? The burners are vented to the outside.

FWIW, I've used my propane torch inside several times. My issues is no place to work with hot metal inside.

And are you saying acetylene is not just as dangerous? I remember it being heavier than air as well.

With the little bit of work I have done at a local shop, I used acetylene/air (i think). But I prefer charcoal over gas.

IowegianStar wrote:

ThomasDodd wrote:Humm... so my propane stove in the kitchen shouldn't be used in doors?

At least not without a pilot light.

I've used a match several times to light the top burners when that pilot goes out, and I'm in a hurry (not enough time to clean the top off). Neither the furnace nor the dryer have standing pilots. But like the oven and water heater, little gas flows untill the control is warm enough (not sure what it's called. A small burner heats something, then the main burner get gas and ignights)

The top burners do flow and can be lit with a match. If that pilot is out, it'll dump gas into the room just like a torch left open would.

I still don't see how a propane torch inside is more dangerous than acetylene.

Haven't Charles Bronson movies taught you anything?

Not nearly as much as when I sprayed bug spray under the stove and forgot to extinguish the pilot first. Took several seconds for the fumes to reach the pilot too.

ThomasDodd wrote:

Dean E wrote:Propane-disassembly-outside only. Propane is heavier than air and creates a danger of explosion inside. For example, leaking propane could sink and accumulate in the basement, the lowest spot in the house.

Humm... so my propane stove in the kitchen shouldn't be used in doors?

What about my water heater, furnace and clothes dryer? The burners are vented to the outside.

FWIW, I've used my propane torch inside several times. My issues is no place to work with hot metal inside.

And are you saying acetylene is not just as dangerous? I remember it being heavier than air as well.

http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&q ... r+than+air+

Good question. I suspect that acetylene tanks and torches are more mechanically reliable than propane. Propane is geared for consumer use.

I believe that many municipal zoning ordinances prohibit propane/butane/LPG tanks inside of dwellings. However, if you live in a trailer park or pull your trailer, no problem, Y'all. Propane tanks inside of dwellings have been known to lead to reverse genetic engineering, a.k.a. retroactive birth control.