Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

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roweenie
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Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

Post by roweenie »

Image

I'm revisiting an older project of mine, and I've got new fresh tubing (the stuff I used back then was pretty beat), so I'd like to lengthen the tubing on top of the 4th valve circuit about 1.5" on each side.

Image
I suspect I already know the answer to the first half of my question (there may be more than one, actually!), but should I do it the same way, or should I have both outer tubes even and square on top?
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Re: Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

Post by windshieldbug »

Are the ends even when the slide’s fully out, or are they offset by a similar amount?
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Re: Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

Post by roweenie »

I suspect they did it for two reasons - 1, it doesn't leave a long, unprotected piece of tubing jutting out, and 2, it makes it easier to reach around (rather than over) and pull it out.

With that said, I've got tubing long enough to make them both equal length at the top - should I do it like that, or should I copy the Holton method?
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Re: Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

Post by roweenie »

No bloke, I think you are spot on here.

I believe your answer hits the nail right on the head, as (at least for me with my short arms) it is easier to pull that slide from around the side, than from above.

This may be one of my personal hang-ups, but "longer-than-normal" ferrules scream "miscalculation of length"....but maybe not in this case? (or maybe I'm over thinking, yet again :cry: )
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Re: Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

Post by bort »

I always thought that asymmetrical slides were done that way so you would always put it back in the right way. The (symmetrical) slides on my Willson have some factory "scratch" marks to indicate which is which...
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Re: Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

Post by roweenie »

Ok, so I did it (and I'm glad I did)-

Image

It actually makes grabbing that slide MUCH easier, either from above, or under the top bow (and it saved a little bit of VERY EXPENSIVE outer tubing for other uses.....!)

While I was at it, I realigned the valve nest, and re-tubed the 1st valve circuit to look more "Holton-ish".

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Re: Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

Post by Tubajug »

Wow! Great looking horn! I assume you added the fifth valve?
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Re: Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

Post by roweenie »

Yes, indeed
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Re: Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

Post by Rivercity Tuba »

Bob, you do beautiful work!
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Re: Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

Post by TubaSteve »

I am not on here very often, as life has been so busy, but great to see the photo if this horn and Bob's workmanship. To think that this thing was literally headed to the scrap yard when I saw it and intervened! I said, "there is no way I am going to let this thing get destroyed!" When I ended up with two of these, I had Lee Stofer build one for me, and the other went to Bob. Lee did a wonderful job on mine, but unlike Bob's, mine was left as a three valve horn. Still a wonderful playing and sounding horn. Both horns have upright and recording bells.

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MW-25, 2-Reynolds 170 (BBb Recording Bass), Reynolds 180 (EEb Recording Bass) , 2-Reynolds 140 Sousaphones, Holton 350, others.....
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Re: Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

Post by roweenie »

Seems as good an explanation as any other.....
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Re: Why did Holton do this? (and should I do it too?)

Post by TubaSteve »

Here's what Bob started with..... I really did find it just before it was going to be loaded on the truck to the recycling center.
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MW-25, 2-Reynolds 170 (BBb Recording Bass), Reynolds 180 (EEb Recording Bass) , 2-Reynolds 140 Sousaphones, Holton 350, others.....
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