Holton 345 Redux

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The Big Ben
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by The Big Ben »

It would seem that the stripping operations would all be dirty, dirty, dirty so do all of those at the same time. Since the top bow must be stripped and you could get along with not stripping the bell and bottom bow but the bell is ugly, you could do the bell and not the bottom bow. If the bell and top bow were in raw brass, it would look like they "match" even though you don't polish to bright raw brass. So, stripping first. Put on some nice clean clothes and get to the other work. Next, finish the valve work Then, the slide work. One would hope the valve and slide work doesn't take a lot of grunting and sweating so, when the stropping was done, the work might be physically easier.

Keep moving forward! Hopefully, all the stuff that has "bugged" you since you got this horn will be gone when you are done.
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roughrider »

Amen! Keep it coming!
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roweenie »

Very useful information - thanks!

I find that making ferrules is one of the most difficult and time consuming things that I do, and that those fancy little tube ends were entirely out of the question.
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roweenie »

I feel your pain....

The way I cut ferrules (and tube ends in general) is much more low-tech. I mark a fine line all around the tube, and then place it on a tapered dowel in my vise, moving the tube up the dowel until it fits tightly. Then, I slowly cut along the line, as I slowly turn the tube on the tapered dowel (kinda like a primitive hand-operated lathe). Once I get the line scored, I can start to add more pressure and cut deeper. Then, dressing the ends with sandpaper, file, and scraper.

Slow, tedious, and annoying, but it "gets the job done".
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roweenie »

Very impressive!
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by Kirley »

the elephant wrote:(Let me know if the video will not play or does not show up. It is restricted, so I can post it, but I am not sure anyone else can see it unless I change the settings.)

Here is how I used to do it. It sucked, but it worked really well.

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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by cambrook »

Me too
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roweenie »

Me and all.
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by The Big Ben »

Fun video! Do you need to do as much post-cutting dressing with your new chop saw?
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roweenie »

Elk-head

Elk-horn

Very clever..... 8)
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roweenie »

I've had some success with using pitch (a few "failures", but generally pretty good). I've never had to buy any, either - I save the pitch from pre-drawn mouthpipes, and keep it in a cheapo crock pot.

Before I fill it I anneal the $hi+ out of it, and then let it air cool (thanks Dan!). Then, for good measure, after letting the pitch cool for a long time, I stick it in the refrigerator for a few hours more.

I'm just careful to pour the pitch in real slow, so I don't get any air pockets.

Also, I devised a system where instead of using corks, I drill hole into a 6×6 block of wood, the same OD as the tubing and place it in vertically. This holds the tube steady, allows me to use both hands while pouring, and the block of wood stops the end of the tube pretty nicely.

To bend the tubing, I cut a piece of 3/4" pine with a jig saw to the angle I want. Then, I screw it into my workbench, and then above it I screw a piece of straight wood, snookering the tube tightly inbetween. That gives me the leverage I need to bend it over the curved piece. If you go slowly, and use a long enough piece of tubing (to get better leverage), I've found that the flat edge of the wood doesn't damage the sides, as you think it would.
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roweenie »

Yes, I agree - cleaning pitch out of the finished product really sucks.... :cry:

I haven't tried to bend anything as tight as you describe. I can't see it as being physically possible to do it without some kind of deformation.
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by Tubajug »

That's looking great Wade! I love the nickel-silver slides with ends you made!
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roughrider »

Your work looks terrific! Keep posting!
1930 King "Symphony" Recording Bass BBb
1916 Holton "Mammoth" Upright Bass BBb
1994 King 2341 Upright Bass BBb
Wedge H2 Solo mouthpieces
Stofer-Geib mouthpieces
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roweenie »

the elephant wrote:Awaiting some alignment tools to make slide building a faster process.
Sounds interesting. Do you care to share what these tools are, and where they are available? TIA!
"Even a broken clock is right twice a day".
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roughrider »

Your tenacity to get this done and done the way you want is amazing. I really am looking forward to the remaining segments and the finished product. Well Done, Elephant!!
1930 King "Symphony" Recording Bass BBb
1916 Holton "Mammoth" Upright Bass BBb
1994 King 2341 Upright Bass BBb
Wedge H2 Solo mouthpieces
Stofer-Geib mouthpieces
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roweenie
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roweenie »

Beautiful 8)
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by The Big Ben »

the elephant wrote: I have Shostakovich 10 all week (starting tonight) which will be played on the 2165. So I will not be working on the Holton for the whole week. Very excited, nonetheless. I have been wanting to make the valve set detachable for about ten years now, so having all the parts in my hands is sort of a weird rush for me.
Good luck on the performance. Hope it goes well.
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by roughrider »

Hope all is well. We look forward to the continuation of the Holton 345 Redux saga when you have time to photograph, write and post!
1930 King "Symphony" Recording Bass BBb
1916 Holton "Mammoth" Upright Bass BBb
1994 King 2341 Upright Bass BBb
Wedge H2 Solo mouthpieces
Stofer-Geib mouthpieces
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Re: Holton 345 Redux

Post by Kirley »

What a bummer!

This is my all-time favorite thread on TubeNet. I think I’m not the only one who feels that way. Thank you so much for sharing your experience with us, Elephant! Both good and bad.
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