Where can a non-pro buy instrument solder?

[MartyNeilan]

I am looking to buy some soft-solder, and from what I have heard some of the large suppliers only sell to professionals (you must provide a tax ID number.) Where would be a good place for a nobody like me to get some genuine brass instrument soft solder?

[Chuck(G)]

I am looking to buy some soft-solder, and from what I have heard some of the large suppliers only sell to professionals (you must provide a tax ID number.) Where would be a good place for a nobody like me to get some genuine brass instrument soft solder?

Check a crafts store that caters to do-it-yourself stained-glass hobbyists. You can buy liquid flux and 60/40 Sn/Pb solder there--you can also buy the 50/50 alloy as well.

[MartyNeilan]

What'cha working on?

Just thinking about putting a few dabs of solder on the leadpipe bracket I fabricated, if I decide to keep it on for a while. Would hate for a screw to work loose at an inopportune moment. And to solder a coin (national origin TBA) on teh LH valve on my F tuba. Nothing major, I don't want to give Lee Stofer a headache if he reads this thread!

"A non-repairman's got to know his limitations" - apologies to Clint.

[Dan Schultz]

I have not gone 'no lead' yet. I still use 70/30 solder for all my 'soft' applications. Last I heard Ferree's in Battle Creek will sell tools and supplies to anyone.

http://www.ferreestools.com/

[Chuck(G)]

I have not gone 'no lead' yet. I still use 70/30 solder for all my 'soft' applications. Last I heard Ferree's in Battle Creek will sell tools and supplies to anyone.

http://www.ferreestools.com/

At my local crafts store, a pound of 60/40 solder costs about $6.00. Ferree's has the same alloy (F45) for $9.00 + shipping.

For flux, I like JW Harris "Stay Clean" liquid flux. It seems to be less finicky than most of the other fluxes that I've tried.

Regardless, keep a spray bottle of water close by when you're soldering to rinse excess flux off the joint. Flux is very corrosive.

I seem to remember that Joe recommended using a spray bottle of Formula 409 instead of water. I haven't tried it, but it makes sense.

[Chuck(G)]

On the subject of which soft-soldering alloy to use, the primary distinction is in the melting characteristics. Since tin-lead solder is a mixture of two metals, it doesn't melt or freeze the same way pure metals do.

There are two terms used when describing the melting characteristics of solder "solidus" and "liquidus". Below the solidus temperature, solder is a solid material. Above the solidus temperature, but below the liquidus temperature, solder is a "slush" of melted and unmelted metal. Above the liquidus temperature, it's completely liquid and flows like water.

All common lead-based solders have a solidus temperature of 183C.

Plumber's 40/60 (sn/pb) solder has a liquidus temperature of about 235C, so it stays slushy for quite some time while cooling. This is good for plumbers, because it allows them to wipe the joint clean as things are cooling down. However, it's important to note that the integrity of any soldier joint will be comprimised if the joint itself is disturbed in the "slushy" state.

Electronics solder is a 63/37 alloy and is what's called a "eutectic" alloy, which means that the liquidus and solidus temperatures are virtually the same--either it's liquid or it's not--no "slushy" stage. It's also the strongest of tin-lead alloys. It's good for instrument repair, when a fast-flowing alloy that isn't needed to fill gaps or be tooled while cooling can be used.

60/40 solder is a good utility solder--the liquidus temperature is about 189C, so it has a short-lived slushy state and so can fill small gaps and can be "tooled" a bit before it sets.

50/50 solder has a liquidus of about 212C and can be used to fill gaps, though it's not as strong as the higher tin content solders..

70/30 solder has a brighter finish and is a bit harder than 60/40, and has a liquidus of about 191C. It's not a commonly used alloy, probably because the physical characteristics are so similar to 60/40.
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One thing that's making big ripples in the electronics industry is the EU's RoHL regulations, which essentially phase out lead-bearing solders in electronics applications. Since lead is already a no-no in plumbing applications, the ultimate result will probably be that, in a few years, lead-bearing solder will almost be impossible for the regular guy to obtain.

While lead-free alloys are getting better, they still don't have the flow and wetting characteristics that lead-bearing alloys do.

But the writing's on the wall.

[Dan Schultz]

I thought I'd add that I like 70/30 over 60/40 or 50/50 mainly because it doesn't make such a mess of silver finishes. Silver LOVES lead!