Oops. Was overly broad on my initial discussion.
My son informed me that the big Conn is flat at F.
If tuned to play F then it's flat at Bb.
Does this change any of the earlier advice?
1920 Conn just flat on F
Forum rules
Be kind. No government, state, or local politics allowed. Admin has final decision for any/all removed posts.
Be kind. No government, state, or local politics allowed. Admin has final decision for any/all removed posts.
- Brassdad
- 4 valves
- Posts: 997
- Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2005 4:22 pm
- Location: Milford, Ohio
- Lew
- 5 valves
- Posts: 1700
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 4:57 pm
- Location: Annville, PA
- windshieldbug
- Once got the "hand" as a cue
- Posts: 11516
- Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 4:41 pm
- Location: 8vb
Re: 1920 Conn just flat on F
Is that right? Seems like to bring F up you'd have to push it in, and that should make Bb sharp...Brassdad wrote:My son informed me that the big Conn is flat at F. If tuned to play F then it's flat at Bb.
Instead of talking to your plants, if you yelled at them would they still grow, but only to be troubled and insecure?
- Lew
- 5 valves
- Posts: 1700
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 4:57 pm
- Location: Annville, PA
Re: 1920 Conn just flat on F
You are correct, I didn't notice that part of his post. If you tune the F to be in tune, the Bb above it should end up sharp.windshieldbug wrote:Is that right? Seems like to bring F up you'd have to push it in, and that should make Bb sharp...Brassdad wrote:My son informed me that the big Conn is flat at F. If tuned to play F then it's flat at Bb.
Last edited by Lew on Fri May 06, 2005 2:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Brassdad
- 4 valves
- Posts: 997
- Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2005 4:22 pm
- Location: Milford, Ohio
Obviously the "old man" isn't as Sharp as I used to be. Mayhaps he said it would play brong at B when played correctly at F.
is there a fix to this? I am certian the plating needs redone on the valses with the lack of "pop" at the first slide. If the slide was also cut as was discussed in the original post would the flat F/B sharp still be in effect?
Does he just need to learn to "lip up"?
Thanks to all on this assist.
is there a fix to this? I am certian the plating needs redone on the valses with the lack of "pop" at the first slide. If the slide was also cut as was discussed in the original post would the flat F/B sharp still be in effect?
Does he just need to learn to "lip up"?
Thanks to all on this assist.
- windshieldbug
- Once got the "hand" as a cue
- Posts: 11516
- Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 4:41 pm
- Location: 8vb
From what you are describing, it is the horn's overtone series that is at fault, and I am not sure of a reliable way to fix that. I doubt that replating or cutting the horn will correct it. From posts I've read over time, you have come to the right place for advice, if it exists, for this problem. Personally, I'd be tempted to take the horn with me to someplace that there were a lot of mouthpieces, and see if they have any effect on the intonation before I changed my mode of playing (always "lipping" some notes).
Instead of talking to your plants, if you yelled at them would they still grow, but only to be troubled and insecure?
- Rick Denney
- Resident Genius
- Posts: 6650
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 1:18 am
- Contact:
During the time that I owned a Conn 20J, I played the flat third-partial F using the 1-3 valve combination, instead of open. The E wasn't as bad nor as often played, and by the Eb it was fine.Brassdad wrote:Does he just need to learn to "lip up"?
Rick "who thought this was one of the easier 20J tuning problems to fix" Denney
-
- bugler
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2004 7:14 pm