Update Update

[windshieldbug]

I cannot locate any of the welding on any of my tubas. What should I do?

Locate an arc-welder and rectify the problem as soon as possible!

[The Jackson]

I cannot locate any of the welding on any of my tubas. What should I do?

Have you tried jiggling the power cord? Ctrl + Alt + Delete?

[Tuba Guy]

I'm going to go visit Leonard Bernstein soon.
I hope he's there...

[tubashaman2]

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[Todd S. Malicoate]

I got my tuba back from the shop in the same day as I put it in, and apparently the car oil leak is from the Pan Gasket and some timing belt cover tile gasket. I still think the majority (personally) is from the pan gasket.

A mechanic installed front seals, a timing belt, and a water pump and left a leaking timing cover??? They had to remove the timing cover for the procedure you paid for...they should have inspected/cleaned the timing cover, checked it for warping, and used a new gasket when they bolted it back on (here is what they should have acquired for that). They also should have obtained a "kit" (see here) for the timing belt including the timing belt tensioner and idler that the belt rides on...it's never good to put a new belt on old pulleys...that's just asking for trouble (and it's the same reason you replace a perfectly good water pump while you're "in there").

Also, why would you have to "guess" where the majority of the leak is if they just checked the vehicle? I hope you are correct that the leak is the oil pan, but why would they tell you the timing cover is leaking if it's not? Never, ever, go back there again...that's completely ridiculous, particularly considering they just did a front cover job.

Plan: Replace pan gasket myself. I already have the pan gasket. So all I need is 2 sockets and a ratchet (one to release the oil and one to get the gasket off), sand paper???? to remove the old gasket from both ends, then put gasket seal to the oil pan rim, and put the gasket on, then put the gasket gunk stuff above, then screw on the oil pan using proper torquing specifications (like torquing a wheel properly star pattern) but start from the corners, add oil

Todd and others, is that all i should need. I think i can dodge removing the exhaust pipe........

Yes, you can do it yourself, and that's all you need. Use RTV Ultra Black silicone for the sealant - you can get a small, single-use tube for a couple of dollars at NAPA. Here is the oil pan gasket you should have...looks easy, doesn't it?

You can definitely "dodge" unbolting the exhaust pipe from the pan - there's no bracket involved on your 4-cylinder Camry so no worries there. You may need to remove some sort of undercarriage "skirt" to get to the pan...no way to tell with the information I have and every vehicle is different in that regard.

Take out the magnets in the bottom of the pan after you remove it - they are there to collect any metal fragments in the engine oil. Place all of the oil pan bolts in a metal pan and soak with parts cleaner. Take a steel brush and thoroughly clean the mounting area for the oil pan on the engine block - use some spray parts cleaner to soften and remove any traces of the old gasket from the mounting flange - use a gasket scraper if necessary.

Skip the sandpaper and take the removed oil pan to a machine shop to have it "bead-blasted." That will remove all traces of the old gasket and give you a nice smooth surface to work with. They should only charge you $5 or $10 for that service.

After getting the pan back from the machinist, replace the magnets in the bottom. Apply a bead of the RTV Ultra Black silicone down the middle of the pan flange between each bolt hole and a circle of sealant around each bolt hole, then center the new gasket on the pan. When installing the pan, start in the middle and alternate out toward the corners in a criss-cross pattern. Have some fresh engine oil on hand to dip the threads of each bolt in...this will help make installation easier. Finger tighten all the bolts first, then apply the torque recommended with a torque wrench (very low, probably 5-10 ft./lbs. or less...I'll check on that tomorrow at work) in the same pattern. You don't want to warp the pan by tightening one side completely first.

[The Jackson]

Wade, if that don't work out with bloke, send her my way. I've got a cousin that needs a night-light.

[tubashaman2]

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[Todd S. Malicoate]

If a wire brush will work, I will use it to get it all off.

It probably will...bead-blasting is just preferred because it is so thorough. Use parts cleaner or gasket remover to get all traces of the old gasket off. That and the steel brush should do fine.

How fast does the gasket silicon seal up, so I know how long I have to put the screws in.

Silicone (not "silicon" - that's an chemical element) stays supple and doesn't harden for a very long time. You don't have to worry about being fast. They're bolts...not screws.

Will the oil pan fall off when the screws are removed, or will I need to pry it off?

Unknown. It depends on the condition of the gasket and the pan. Usually they come off easily. DO NOT use a screwdriver or something similar to "pry" the pan off...you can very easily damage the mounting flange on the block.

To clarify, do I put the silicon on top and bottom to help with the sealing, and if it is still leaking bad then I will have to live with this till I get another car.

Read my instructions again. You only put silicone on the pan itself, then the gasket onto the silicone-coated pan. Extra silicone does not equal better leak protection. Only you can decide what to do if the car continues to leak.

The total rate for the oil pan gasket was $250, but it was ALOT for that timing cover (front cover), and said valve cover and oil sender and filter adapter was leaking too but wouldn't fix all those together or one alone. Seems a little shady, but thanks for the info.

$250 is too much for an oil pan gasket job...reference the earlier comments about NEVER visiting that garage again. If all those other things are really leaking, you're going to need to get out of that car relatively soon...leaks such as those have a tendency to get worse with time and mileage. Here's another soapbox for using the money you are allocating for a new F tuba for more reliable transportation. Your ideas about a "well-paying assistantship" are amusing to this old horse who's been on them more than once.

I would go to NAPA, but all the stores are in pretty bad areas in town, where crime rates are high. Thanks for the info though

That's a very weird reason for not going to a certain place. Abilene has "high crime" areas?

a 3 hour max job right?

Depends on your general mechanical ability. I could do it in 1 hour easily.

P.S. they did put a timing belt tensioner/pulley on. He knew it was leaking from there, but didn't have the part/gasket, the place seemed shady, and they said the oil leak was worse from the front.

It seems unlikely that a garage that would do the correct repair and get a timing belt kit wouldn't be able to locate a front seal set with a timing cover gasket. No professional mechanic would to a front cover job without obtaining a new timing cover gasket (at least, on those vehicles like yours that use a gasket).

Todd, suspicious

[tubashaman2]

.

[Todd S. Malicoate]

I am tempted to do one of those 5000 minimum for your trade places in Dallas

Kia Sedona only...they don't tell you that in the ads. Don't get suckered by an obvious gimmick that will evaporate at the deal table.

On the other hand, I hope you're not counting on the new "Cash for Clunkers" or CARS (Car Allowance Rebate System) legislation which gives a $3500-$4500 credit from the government on a trade-in vehicle. Your 1992 Camry doesn't qualify. I don't know many cars made in the last 25 years that get less than 18 mpg combined city/highway.

Todd, not impressed

[windshieldbug]

but its mainly going to take time to jack up the car

Whatever you do, take the time to block up the bottom once you've jacked it up.
Even Japanese cars are heavy when they fall on you!

[windshieldbug]

[OldsRecording]

What's Elvis doing with Maurice Gibb?

[Todd S. Malicoate]

UPDATE:

This is a fresh update. You have been updated.

[Naptown Tuba]

What's Elvis doing with Maurice Gibb?

Nah, man. That's not Maurice Gibb. That's the guy Obama sees when he looks in the mirror every morning.

[OldsRecording]

This is my 1000th post. As you were.

BTW, as I have just gotten my 5th valve, would you recommend the 'flat whole-step' or the '2 & 3'?

[The Jackson]

UPDATE:

I be seein' a very pleasureable, if late, breakfast in me near future.

[tubashaman2]

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[Todd S. Malicoate]

Update: I was unable to fix the oil pan gasket, but I tried,and learned how to change my oil, so it is all good for now!

Sorry, James. Had I known you didn't know how to change your oil I would have never recommended you attempt an oil pan gasket replacement.

[tubashaman2]

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