Best Battery for active Bass?

Mike Finn · Post by **Mike Finn** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 9:30 am

The "zip cord challenge" mentioned in the banana plug thread (and less than stellar tone on the job last night) got me thinking... do you guys have a favorite brand of 9 volt battery for your active basses? I always used to use Energizer, but lately I've just been using whatever cheap ones we happen to have around the house. Am I imagining it, or is there a real possibility that there is a difference in the performance of these things, besides their life expectancy?
Any help is appreciated!
MF

Mike Finn · Post by **Mike Finn** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 9:56 am

Bloke, if that active/passive Brice bass is the one you posted a pic of in another thread, I was wondering where the switch was. Now I understand!

pulling up on the volume knob - which instantly converts the pick-ups from active to passive.

That sounds handy! I've got one of those pop-up battery compartments on the back of my main bass, a Brian Moore i5, so the minute I think I sense a degradation in signal, I pop it out between songs and test it/ change it.
MF

iiipopes · Post by **iiipopes** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 11:33 am

A couple of years ago Consumer Reports did a study of 9-volts with different conditions, loads, items, aging, and a lot of different brands on all kinds of items: flashlights, consumer electronics, etc. Their bottom line was alkaline was alkaline, and they all lasted about the same within the same statistical variation you could expect from manufacturing. And their conclusion was to buy the least expensive alkaline you want, and don't keep them on the shelf for too long before you use them.

I know for some stomp boxes, especially those which use germanium instead of silicon transistors, that there are those "purists" who insist you get the best tone out of the old silver label Eveready 9v, non-alkaline, as the voltage drop gives "compression" and doesn't overload the transistors, but I've not been able to hear the difference, even trying it out in a control setting, and so they can change batteries after every gig if they want to. I like my batteries to last a little bit longer, since I can get some local store brands for much less than the name brand big boys.

chhite · Post by **chhite** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 12:10 pm

I, too, have found Duracell to be the longest lasting in my basses. Probably an obvious tip, but remember to unplug the cable from the bass when not in use as the plug completes the circuit in the TRS stereo jack of an active bass.

Some built-in battery boxes are not very receptive to some 9v batteries. Some batteries are just a hair larger and don't fit well and may spring or warp the box if forced. I think it was Energizer that I was having a problem with, mainly in wireless beltpacks. I'm not sure if this is still the case.

Many bass manufacturers have been using an active/passive switch in the form of a pull switch on the volume knob or a mini toggle near the other knobs. Why other manufacturers still refuse to put this gig-saving feature on their equipment boggles my mind. Almost every aftermarket pickup/pre-amp upgrade has the switch available if not standard.

Chuck(G) · Post by **Chuck(G)** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 12:51 pm

Funny you should ask.

Panasonic just trotted out a new alkaline at CES; looks like it's only available in AA and AAA sizes, though.

http://biz.yahoo.com/pz/070107/111427.html

If you keep a backup in the charger, rechargeables may be a better idea, long-term:

http://www.greenbatteries.com/batterymyths.html

kegmcnabb · Post by **kegmcnabb** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 3:30 pm

schlepporello wrote:I'm switching to Duracell NiMH rechargables on everything I use batteries in...

I have heard (but do not know) that the charge on rechargables drops off rather gradually resulting in negative changes of tone/performance that do not occur in regular akalines which seem to pump out full juice and then die (relatively) suddenly. Anyone know if this is so?

Anyway, I use Duracells in my Kubicki bass (and all others) and all pedals are powered by a Furman power supply.

Chuck(G) · Post by **Chuck(G)** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 5:27 pm

Check the article that I cited. It's true that rechargeables do self-discharge, which is why it's a good idea to have a backup (freshly charged) set handy.

But if this is a low-current-draw application, such as a preamp, it's hard to go wrong with lithium. They're not cheap, but they'll last for years. Landlords like 'em for smoke detectors and I've got one in the garage door opener remote that's been working for about 6 years.

Speaking of things green, have they got ya using BioWillie yet, Schlep?

trseaman · Post by **trseaman** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 9:09 pm

I've always played a Fender P-Bass but a few months ago I saw a fella on YouTube playing a 6-string bass...

http://youtube.com/watch?v=mnk5-IGPL4k

He's got a ton of songs uploaded to YouTube now... Inspired, I bought a Carvin 6-string from Ebay and had to replace it's batteries. Because we've got two young'uns with battery powered everything! I also use the Duracell NiMH rechargables...

Tim

iiipopes · Post by **iiipopes** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 11:22 am

chhite wrote:Many bass manufacturers have been using an active/passive switch in the form of a pull switch on the volume knob or a mini toggle near the other knobs. Why other manufacturers still refuse to put this gig-saving feature on their equipment boggles my mind. Almost every aftermarket pickup/pre-amp upgrade has the switch available if not standard.

First, the reason the bypass switch is not used more often is that a lot of bass manufacturers use a lower impedance pickup that works better with less loading on the preamp, hence better sound, but at the cost of reduced output that won't drive the front end of an amp or direct box without the preamp.

Second, I have seen a little device that, if I gigged with active electronics would have, is installed in your guitar or bass that is the low battery indicator LED that comes on before the battery is drained to the point you can't use it anymore, so you can change it at a set break.

Third, any guitar that I have that uses actives, and I admit for now it's only one acoustic, although I have considered the active rout, er, route (yes, sometimes you have to make room in the body to retrofit), I have a separate battery box installed in the instrument. It's just silly not to install one, and then either have to loosen all your strings on your acoustic to get to the little bag or clip inside, then have your guitar unstable for the rest of the gig as the strings resettle, or the waste of time to dismantle your electric guitar, especially Strats and their offspring, in order to get to the battery. So if I went active, I'd have my spare battery always ready (not Eveready Ha!) on my stand and the battery box where I could easily flip the cover and change it, so the passive/active switch is not an issue. It's no big deal to me, since I have a duplicate of almost everything -- the classic redundancy approach -- with me in a gig box I keep at my feet or by the monitor at every gig, from picks, strings, cords, all the way to a spare guitar or bass, and, yes, because of stomp boxes, extra batteries.

And considering the anecdotal evidence that Duracells last longer: a lot of improvements in batteries have surely been made in the last two years. If I played longer gigs, I'd consider them.

tubatooter1940 · Post by **tubatooter1940** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 12:17 am

Batteries are a pain and I found transformers for my stomp boxes and piano 'cause I love 120 volt plug-ins. Got two 150 foot fat cords on a wheel around reel.
I bought three Sennheuser wireless mikes that take two AA batteries apiece every 6-8 hours. Those mikes are so hot that the battery hassle has to be worth it. They also eliminate three long cables onstage.
Saw Shania Twain on T.V. singing through a Sennheuser wireless mike. She has the loot to buy any mike ever invented. She's cute too.

dmmorris · Post by **dmmorris** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 10:21 am

I've been using the NiMH rechargeables on jez-about everything. Including believe-it-or-not my SB-800 flash. 5 on the unit, 5 freshly charged in the gigbag, and 5 in the charger. I've not had problems with them. True, they don't last as long and their shelf-life even, without load, isn't great, but I like to believe that I'm doing a good thing.

I am totally fascinated by this thought that different batteries can "sound" differently....and change the way they sound as they progress though a life-cycle. Weird.....maybe not a weird as different interconnect cables or speaker cables â€œsoundingâ€

Steve Inman · Post by **Steve Inman** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 2:37 pm

I attended a sound reinforcement seminar many years back where the 9V battery question came up regarding wireless microphones. The advice: put in a brand new one at the start of every event and throw it away afterward. The relative cost for an organization (i.e. a church) or a paid performer (i.e. many of us) is minimal. The results are almost guaranteed to be flawless, with close to a zero chance of battery failure during performance.

Do I do this? No. I haven't changed the battery in my acoustic guitar in over a year. I probably should. But if I put in a new one every month, that would be a reasonable compromise between this "super-safe" strategy and my "flirting with disaster" typical approach.

Cheers,

MartyNeilan · Post by **MartyNeilan** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 4:10 pm

tubatooter1940 wrote:Batteries are a pain and I found transformers for my stomp boxes and piano 'cause I love 120 volt plug-ins. Got two 150 foot fat cords on a wheel around reel.

Question:
Do the transformers add any kind of buzz, line noise, 60 cycle hum, etc??

kegmcnabb · Post by **kegmcnabb** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 7:08 pm

Steve Inman wrote:I attended a sound reinforcement seminar many years back where the 9V battery question came up regarding wireless microphones. The advice: put in a brand new one at the start of every event and throw it away afterward.

In critical performance situations there is no other way to go. I worked as an actor for several years with a theatre company using Senheiser wireless mics. Every night the stage manager would come and put fresh ones in and throw out the old. Never a problem, except on the rare occasion that one got forgotten...in which case, the performance (of the mic and the show) both suffered. We tried rechargables but they just didn't seem to be reliable enough to last each night in every pack...some would...some wouldn't...and audience members don't really want to lose dialogue or music during the show (especially at the end), or hear excuses when they point out for their $50 tickets that they had to deal with poor sound.

On a non-battery related note, the body packs that held the batteries and transmitters were usually strapped to the small of our backs...the same place where all your sweat wants to drain while under the hot stage lights. The solution? After replacing the batteries each night, the stage manager would place a condom on the pack, thus protecting it from the actor's bodily fluids. Funnier still, the aforementioned stage manager was a very attractive young female. One time while picking up 100 condoms at the local Walgreens, the cashier looked at her and said, "You must be really popular!"

iiipopes · Post by **iiipopes** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 10:19 pm

Now that's funny!

tubatooter1940 · Post by **tubatooter1940** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:03 pm

MartyNeilan wrote:
tubatooter1940 wrote:Batteries are a pain and I found transformers for my stomp boxes and piano 'cause I love 120 volt plug-ins. Got two 150 foot fat cords on a wheel around reel.
Question:
Do the transformers add any kind of buzz, line noise, 60 cycle hum, etc??

No sir, I have never noticed any buzz, hum or any noise that traced to any transformers as long as they were the ones supplied by the instrument manufacturers. They come with instructions not to substitute.
I have had fits with cheap stage light dimmers with the rotory adjustment knob. They make a p.a. buzz sooo bad.

fpoon · Post by **fpoon** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:00 am

I use Energizer E-Squared. I just switch em out every 12 months. NEVER had one die on me, and I play about every day.

Ditto on Carvin, they rock.

As for Korean made basses... Koreans make good? electronical stuff, and are getting better at cars. But to say the basses they make are better than Ibanez is like saying that Iraq is safer than Afghanistan.

fpoon · Post by **fpoon** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:29 am

Bloke, not trying to start anything but I've never played a bass made in Korea that I thought was worth a darn.

Fp "who will take a $900 Carvin any day of the week over a $600 Korean anything" oon

Mike Finn · Post by **Mike Finn** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:15 pm

Found today in the "Product Spotlight" special advertising section of the new Bass Player magazine: http://powerbug.com/battery_tech.php
They claim not only longer life, but more headroom and reduced noise! Sounds good, eh? Oh, and fpoon, my Brian Moore was made in Korea, and although the finish is not flawless, I'd certainly say it is worth a darn! Although if Carvin would offer their LB76 with a slightly closer string spacing, I might be tempted to try one again. I do enjoy looking at their catalog every couple of months.

MF

trseaman · Post by **trseaman** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 8:03 am

Well...

Being from CA I've had the privilege of attending some Carvin events, toured their factory and just liked dealing with the manufacturer rather than a dealer. I also looked at the Korean POS's but found my Carvin bass on Ebay for $500. He didn't have a good description, the pictures were bad and the title was worded wrong so he didn't have many lookers. I think I got a good deal. If it were priced like the other Carvin basses out there I probably wouldn't have bought it. Their over priced like some tubas! Either way, it's a good American bass for a decent price. Having six strings, I just have to learn to play it properly!

Tim

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