After awhile,

Dan Schultz · Post by **Dan Schultz** » Thu Aug 30, 2007 4:33 pm

I've had pretty good luck masking off specific areas and using 'Aircraft' stripper to strip only the area I'm going to work on. Word to the wise.... once lacquer is 'burned', it can be a real devil to get off. Strip the area BEFORE you apply the torch! Of course, the new lacquer you put back on won't match the old stuff.... but Bloke is working on that!

I don't think it's possible to 'unburn' lacquer.

Dan Schultz · Post by **Dan Schultz** » Fri Aug 31, 2007 3:20 pm

BTW... if 'Aircraft' stripper doesn't touch it... as is the case with the old yellow/gold/brown 'Eastlake' lacquer... Easy-Off oven cleaner will do the job. Don't leave it on very long and rinse it off very well. And above all.... always remove the lacquer before applying a torch. It is possible to solder without burning lacquer.... but don't count on it!

Dan Schultz · Post by **Dan Schultz** » Fri Aug 31, 2007 9:07 pm

ReclusEndangerment wrote:
TubaTinker wrote:BTW... if 'Aircraft' stripper doesn't touch it... as is the case with the old yellow/gold/brown 'Eastlake' lacquer... Easy-Off oven cleaner will do the job. Don't leave it on very long and rinse it off very well. And above all.... always remove the lacquer before applying a torch. It is possible to solder without burning lacquer.... but don't count on it!
Will keep that in mind...And just today I managed to solder two joints without burning lacquer

Some of the new epoxies will take a good amount of heat. That old 'Eastlake' stuff burns at well under solder-melting temperature.

LoyalTubist · Post by **LoyalTubist** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:20 pm

You bad airplane. I will make you go away...

Or I'll turn you into a cornfield!